Chevy & GMC Vans

I am in the middle of insulating my cargo Astro as a camper and I'm stuck at how to adhere the plywood wall panel I've cut to the framing along the interior driverside wall. The framing is sparse and very shallow (maybe 1" from the outer wall of the van) and I am not sure if it is safer to use self-tapping screws and go through it or to use anchor bolts and try to hook into the holes already in the frame. I'm sure several of you have done a similar operation in your own van so I'd like to ask: how'd you do it? Do you wish you had done something else? Tell me about your walls.

What I did-
Rubber tape on the ribs where ply makes contact w/ metal to avoid squeaks
then used shortest self drilling screws possible.
Where the screw would be close to the outer skin I used a plain sheet metal screw and pre-drilled in order to have more thread grabbing metal.

My walls / ceiling are FRP laminated to 1/4" ply.

WoodButcher wrote:What I did-
Rubber tape on the ribs where ply makes contact w/ metal to avoid squeaks
then used shortest self drilling screws possible.
Where the screw would be close to the outer skin I used a plain sheet metal screw and pre-drilled in order to have more thread grabbing metal.

My walls / ceiling are FRP laminated to 1/4" ply.

DSCF2084.JPG

DSCF2042.JPG

I'm just using 1/4" ply and I can't seem to get contact with the framing without seriously forcing it down due to the roundedness of the side of the van. I'm worried that once I put something in it it's going to pull out violently.

Hi,
You may want to purchase $80 Riv-nut kit from McMaster Carr.com.
Then you can install aluminum or steel threaded inserts in the sheet metal of the van wall stringers. Then use machine screws to attach the plywood to the wall.
The Riv nuts are like pop rivets but have theeaded center portion. 10-32 or 10-24 size would be strong enouh.
AP

Cut sticks that will span from one side of the van to the other, saturate the ply with water place the ply using the sticks to press and hold in place. Cut the sticks short and use shims to make them tight when you put them up. If you think it will break, do the bend gradually, apply pressure, let the wood dry, rinse, repeat until it conforms.
Also when cutting the plywood you will want the outer grain, the 96" length to run front to back. If you try to run it vertical it will take more time to bend.

Astrophysics wrote:Hi,
You may want to purchase $80 Riv-nut kit from McMaster Carr.com.
Then you can install aluminum or steel threaded inserts in the sheet metal of the van wall stringers. Then use machine screws to attach the plywood to the wall.
The Riv nuts are like pop rivets but have theeaded center portion. 10-32 or 10-24 size would be strong enouh.
AP

This seems like the most elegant solution but it also seems like overkill. This wall will not be load-bearing whatsoever, btw.

WoodButcher wrote:Cut sticks that will span from one side of the van to the other, saturate the ply with water place the ply using the sticks to press and hold in place. Cut the sticks short and use shims to make them tight when you put them up. If you think it will break, do the bend gradually, apply pressure, let the wood dry, rinse, repeat until it conforms.
Also when cutting the plywood you will want the outer grain, the 96" length to run front to back. If you try to run it vertical it will take more time to bend.

This won't bubble up and do weird things to the wood?

It shouldn't but it depends on the material / glue used in the laminate. Test a scrap.

How did it go, have you made progress, I am starting to think about my interior. Would love to see what you did, thanks