Motorhome body on 99 SAFAR AWD

[doyoulikeithere]

Could be.
I just figured their own website would be the most current.

Actually, today, i had a customer who specifically wanted a CAST IRON exhaust mani for a S10 2.5.
Dorman listed one, So I looked it up in more detail.
Dorman specifically states 'made of CAST IRON', so I punched some keys & had the girls deliver it.
Guess what... Refund. Damn Dorman !

[AstroWill]

Sucks when that happens, what they meant was 'originally cast iron'

[doyoulikeithere]

Pleased to say that I sold a Doorman exterior door handle for a strofari today at work.
I was happy to see that it was the improved design with the black clip instead of the white 3 slot clip.
It was definitely New Stock. Yay Dorman !

[Astrophysics]

Hi Everyone,

Good to see that Dorman does listen and read customer complaints and improve the design of some products. If you have to change the oil cooler line on your AWD Astro, make sure to lower the front differential just an inch or so by loosening the diff carrier bolts! This saves hours since you can reach the 10 mm bolt head by the clamp. Also, the new cooler lines will not fit past the oil pan unless front diff is lowered.

Dorman made big improvements to there 625-105 cooler line. They put heavy square end on the ends that push into radiator, so that you can even tap the fitting in with a small ball peen hammer if it is a tight fit. They also include the blue Quick clips, and they improved the clamp, and they improved the protective end dust caps. Good job Dorman.

I installed new line on my 2003 AWD.

AP.

[AstroWill]

I just figured their own website would be the most current.

I would actually figure the opposite way, they used the original one to make the site and any revisions they probably don't update the site unless it's something major.

Pleased to say that I sold a Doorman exterior door handle for a strofari today at work.
I was happy to see that it was the improved design with the black clip instead of the white 3 slot clip.
It was definitely New Stock. Yay Dorman !

That is awesome that they improved the design, they seem to be pretty good for doing that.

[LAZ 1]

My 99 AWD SAFARI Micro Motorhome is back on the road,
legally inspected, BC certified, and registered.
WHOO HOO!!

Bit of a side trip happened after I replaced the broken front brake line that had rusted out and was rotten in several places. Local shop bled the brakes for me [ pain in the butt for a DIY guy to do by himself with all that complicated AWD/ABS/proportioning Valve setup on the 99 Safari.

BUTTTTTT ...
after they bled the brakes, I still had a brake error light showing on the dash. They tried to tell me it was simply a bad switch on my parking brake, but they were FFNNN IDIOTS!!!

Took it to another shop who diagnosed a stuck [ REALLY STUCK ] proportioning valve, so I picked up a good used valve body from a local wrecking yard. Only another $ 140.

OH,
and by the way,
the rear shoes were worn down to metal ....
the first shop were obviously incompetent, because they never said nuthin' bout dat.
MORE $$$ for rear shoes and new wheel cylinders.

OH,
and by the way,
all the other brake lines [ and gas lines too ] are rusty, brittle, and rotten ... just waiting to crack and leak.
PAY THE MAN more $$$ to replace ALL the lines.

OH,
and by the way,
the left front wheel bearing/hub assembly/ABS sensor is FAFLUCHCTEN,
so order in a new [ BEST / LIFETIME warranty] AWD hub assembly.
OUCH!! Big bite there.

OK FINE,
that stupid little red light is now gone ....
only cost me about $ 2000 to get it to go out.

Time to get it inspected, certified, and licensed again, and back on the road.

WAIT A MINUTE ...
phoned around to half a dozen ICBC inspection facilities, and none of them wanted to even look at my "FRANKENVAN" DIY motorhome conversion.

OK FINE,
finally located an ICBC inspection shop that was willing to look at my van.
GREAT ...
he loved the body I had built. Absolutely no issues with my conversion work, but he asked me to install new wiper blades and paint the bumpers ... apparently VISIBLE rust is a no no for a new BC inspection. He even had a couple of guys stop by his shop who wanted to buy the Micro motorhome .... before I had even built the interior.

BUT WAIT ANOTHER DAM MINUTE ...
just when I though I was in the clear, while he was installing my new hinge pins on the driver's door, he discovered that the hinges and supporting metal were RUSTED OUT. NO TICKY, NO CERTIFICATION with that door.

So phone my favorite wrecking yard [ we ar ealmost best buds by now ] and order up a door. Best door in the yard ... another $ 300.

Pay the inspector man for his signature and stamp, and add in another $ 100 to have him replace the absolutely rusted permanently in place hinge pins [ HORRIBLE JOB TO DO ] and hang my new/ used door.

OK FINE ,...
this time finally for real,
and back on the road I go.

Still have some final exterior trim work, basically gonna redo the bottom half in Black rubber checker plate material. Still need to do the interior. Still need to replace the sagged out rear springs with 4" lift / HD models, and also BILSTEIN shocks. Then level the front with the torsion bars to match the rear, and a wheel alignment.

Final bits:
Because the van has been off the road, sitting for over a year, I just had a thorough inspection done by Midas while they changed the oil. Me and the mechanic spent a lot of time under the van while it was up in the hoist, checking for any possible problems that might show up. The underside/front suspension/drive train is in surprisingly good condition. Gonna do a tune up, trans flush, lube all the diffs and transfer, etc. Make up a spare parts box, and go.

If things go well, I plan to head SOUTH to Arizona in this unit next month, and possibly go further South after that.

FINALLY,
I have a micro motorhome with AWD that will go down the road less travelled in comfort, style, and safety,
(;-{)
LAZ 1

[LAZ 1]

Today I installed HEAVY DUTY BILSTEIN rear shocks, # 24-010474 under my LAZ 1 MICRO MOTORHOME. The wood motorhome body is not much heavier than all the steel I cut out, but that 7' tall side wall generates a lot of force in cross winds. I consider the HD BILSTEIN shocks, front and rear, [ over LT 235/75R15" tires ] as critical upgrades. I still have to replace the rear springs with a NEW set of 4 leaf / 1000 lb heavier rated, special order aftermarkets. Right now the "LAZ 2" MICRO Motorhome is riding on sagging springs tight up to the bump stops. Amazingly, it still handles OK on the hiway, but definitely not a rallye car and rough over bumps.

These new springs will give me about 3 - 4" lift at the rear, and get closer to level with the 2" spacer lift I did at the front. I will tweak the front torsion bars to get perfect level once all the interior, with full water tank, and all the camping gear and food and ... etc!! ... is installed. Since I trimmed and radiused the front fender flares for another 2" clearance, I have lots of room to torque up the torsion bars if required.

As a real treat for myself,
I FINALLY replaced the worn out, sticky ignition key with a brand new one, cut by the dealer from my VIN #. What a bargain ... $ 8.95 ... and no more three or four tries before the key turned in the ignition switch. I had almost forgot what starting the van with no hassle was like.
[;-[)

[AstroWill]

Keep up the great work, would love to see some more pictures.

[LAZ 1]

Fitted two larger windows to the rear and the right side.
Fitted a proper round corner hatch to the right rear storage compartment.

Bought a roll of BLACK RUBBER checkerplate commercial grade hall runner material for use as a rock guard on the lower section of the box AND the doors and fenders.

[LAZ 1]

Cut the 6"x6"x3/8" steel angle iron up for the front bumper, drilled all the mounting holes, trial fit on the frame ...
just waiting for the welding to complete.

[Astrophysics]

Awesome front bumper! Please weigh it on bathroom scale when you finish welding. I think the original thin steel bumper was about 15 lbs plus weight of plastic bumper trim .

AP

[LAZ 1]

Time for some feedback and opinions on the STYLE and APPEARANCE of my Micro Motorhome Overland Build … AKA …
LAZ’s Home For Wayward Wanderers.

I just added some BLACK RUBBER checkerplate / rockguard to the back of my motorhome body, 1/8” thick, 40” wide, with 1 ½” natural color aluminum angle iron for corner mouldings. Comments from a few people who have seen it on the road, have been very positive. All agree the Black Checkerplate at the bottom with thick aluminum corner trim, looks much more appropriate and "purposeful" for an “OVERLANDING” built rig, than the conventional “RV White Aluminum and White trim”.

BEFORE:


AFTER:


But now I am not sure which way to proceed with the exterior covering.

Originally, I planned to wrap just the bottom of the box, 40” high, with Black rubber checkerplate, and that is still a given. I have that material bought and paid for, and ready to install. However, I was then planning to use GREY checkerplate, similar to what is on the roof, for the top section, giving the box a ?stylish? “Two Tone “ look. But so far, feedback has indicated that “BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL”, and that I should use Black for both top and bottom.

One friend stated that the Black Checkerplate with 1 ½” aluminum corners made the box look “RUGGED”, “SERIOUS”, “SOLID” and “TOUGH”, and suggested I cover the entire box in Black. Another agreed that the Black looked great, but stated that ALL BLACK everywhere, without any break or high light, would be too much, and suggested a “divider” or “racing stripe” between the top and bottom.

I would appreciate some feedback and opinions from the forum regarding whether all black, black and grey, or black with a dividing stripe , are preferred.

PS: “Design by internet feedback” is always an interesting experience. We all know that, “an elephant is a mouse that was designed by a committee”. I have used this process before on other projects, and found that opinions from other special interest forum members, can provide alternative perspectives and point out unseen pitfalls, before design decisions and potential mistakes are made.

Hopefully you all will provide some valid and helpful guidance,
Thanks
LAZ 1

[LAZ 1]

A PICTURE OF MY MASSIVE NEW FRONT BUMPER.
3/8" thick 6"X6" angle iron.
Still to do ... waterjet cutouts to lighten it, welding the joints, and welding on a 2" receiver for a removable winch mount.

[doyoulikeithere]

Yes, a contrasting color on the top half would make it more visible for sure.
I keep wondering why the top isn't plastered with solar panels?
Black will generate a lot of heat in the summer here in warmland, but that could be a good thing too.

Ya buddy! Nice bumper too. Receiver winches are the way to go. 2" rec at either end.

This was us last week winching my buddy's DR650 up where he flew off the road goin fast.
We used a receiver hitch and 80 feet of cable to get down to the bike and recover it the next day.
He is ok, amazingly! He was chasing me back to Cowichan from Renfrew on fun fast backroads. Epic ride that day

[LAZ 1]

My DO IT YOURSELF AWD SAFARI TIGER CLONE BUILD,
is definitely different from the TIGER Mini Motorhome recreational vehicle it was modeled .

I wanted an "OVERLANDING" capable rig, with simple and basic interior accommodations, and a tough and sturdy exterior appearance. So, even though the initial exterior finish of my build was conventional RV type aluminum sheathing and RV style corner mouldings, I eventually switched over to a more rugged "industrial" look, with Black 1/8" thick rubber checkerplate rock guard around the bottom, with 1 1/2" 1/8" thick aluminum corner mouldings. Of course, re-doing the exterior twice turned out to be at least three times as much work, but I am getting close to finishing, and I am liking the appearance. The first panel, at the back bottom, needs to be re-glued [ I used the wrong glue and got bubbles ] but now have the right glue and process.

I used a dividing strip of shiny aluminum checkerplate to accent the "Basic black box" look.

Now I am deciding between MORE Black rubber checkerplate at the top,
OR,
switching to Grey plastic checkerplate.
Any comments?