Hello,
I am switching my manual door locks to automatic in my 2001 astro cargo van. It looks like the wiring is in the doors, I now have the rear door and sliding door actuators installed and plugged in.
My question is this. My Hayes manual says that there is a door lock relay and a door lock control module, but it doesn't say where they should be located. Any help anyone?
Switching to automatic locks from manual.
Re: Switching to automatic locks from manual.
Went to the junk yard. Found an Astro van with most of the dash board removed. Nestled nicely behind and slightly to the left of the stereo hole was a black box measuring 4"x3"x1" labeled Remote Function Actuation Module. I assume this is the remote keyless entry module. I brought it home with me. It will be a bugger to get to in my van, and I may even go with an aftermarket setup because of it.
I now have all the door lock solenoids (they are really motor driven). In order to make them work in my van, I needed to get the interconnect linkage. All these parts are pop-riveted into the doors. There is a lot of drilling involved in getting the ones off the junk yard car.
Upon further investigation of my own van, it would seem that not all the wiring is in place as I originally thought. The wiring is there for the back cargo door, but for the slider, I needed to install the contact plate and pins in the sliding door and door post. The wiring is in place in the door post to connect to the contact plate. Needle nosed pliers got that out of the hole in the post. The front doors have no wiring except for the speakers. I will need to run new wiring for those, along with the switch wiring.
The more I look at it, the more I think after market door lock system is in order. I think it will be easier in the long run, though I am curious if I can do it as OEM. Hmm.
I will keep this post updated as I go. I hope to take pictures too.
I now have all the door lock solenoids (they are really motor driven). In order to make them work in my van, I needed to get the interconnect linkage. All these parts are pop-riveted into the doors. There is a lot of drilling involved in getting the ones off the junk yard car.
Upon further investigation of my own van, it would seem that not all the wiring is in place as I originally thought. The wiring is there for the back cargo door, but for the slider, I needed to install the contact plate and pins in the sliding door and door post. The wiring is in place in the door post to connect to the contact plate. Needle nosed pliers got that out of the hole in the post. The front doors have no wiring except for the speakers. I will need to run new wiring for those, along with the switch wiring.
The more I look at it, the more I think after market door lock system is in order. I think it will be easier in the long run, though I am curious if I can do it as OEM. Hmm.
I will keep this post updated as I go. I hope to take pictures too.
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trybe13
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Re: Switching to automatic locks from manual.
You may want to take a look here:
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/ ... mid=cl4000
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/ ... mid=cl4000
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Click the link to bang that head! http://www.ilike.com/artist/Trybe13
Re: Switching to automatic locks from manual.
OK Folks! Here is what I have learned:
The wiring from each door is routed to the driver and passenger side panels; The rear cargo door wiring is routed up and over the door, along the ceiling of the driver side, down the driver side door (behind the seat), Under a foot protector conduit, and up to the drivers side left leg panel.
The sliding door wiring is routed down the passengers side door column, through the passengers side foot protector conduit, and up the passengers right leg panel. Each door has all the wiring needed for everything routed to a connector on the corresponding side, one connector for each door. Only the wires that are needed are routed from this connector to each door.
In my case, the rear cargo door wiring was all in place, and once I installed the lock solenoid, everything was ready to go for that door. Again (from my post above), linkage is needed in addition to the solenoid for each of these doors. Go to the junk yard for these.
For the sliding door, I needed to install the contact plate and corresponding contact pins on post and door, and route wiring inside the door to the lock solenoid that I installed.
For the driver and passenger side doors, I need to route wiring for each of the solenoids, and the door switch in each door (5 wires for each door). The Solenoid wiring is 16 gauge, and it looks like the switch wiring is 18 or 20 gauge.
These five wires can be connected directly into the door connector (or spliced into the wires) in the front panels described above.
I do not have a switch yet, but have tested it out with a jumper wire from the orange wire in the connector to the light blue for lock, or the white for unlock. Once I get my switch, I will be able to make it all work.
The relay and other wiring are already in place.
Here are the wiring color codes:
Large tan wire - Lock solenoid
Large grey wire - Lock solenoid
Small tan wire - speaker wire (Front doors only)
Small grey wire - speaker wire (Front doors only)
Orange wire - hot power from cigarette lighter fuse
Light blue wire - door lock relay control
White wire - door unlock relay control
I hope this helps someone.
The wiring from each door is routed to the driver and passenger side panels; The rear cargo door wiring is routed up and over the door, along the ceiling of the driver side, down the driver side door (behind the seat), Under a foot protector conduit, and up to the drivers side left leg panel.
The sliding door wiring is routed down the passengers side door column, through the passengers side foot protector conduit, and up the passengers right leg panel. Each door has all the wiring needed for everything routed to a connector on the corresponding side, one connector for each door. Only the wires that are needed are routed from this connector to each door.
In my case, the rear cargo door wiring was all in place, and once I installed the lock solenoid, everything was ready to go for that door. Again (from my post above), linkage is needed in addition to the solenoid for each of these doors. Go to the junk yard for these.
For the sliding door, I needed to install the contact plate and corresponding contact pins on post and door, and route wiring inside the door to the lock solenoid that I installed.
For the driver and passenger side doors, I need to route wiring for each of the solenoids, and the door switch in each door (5 wires for each door). The Solenoid wiring is 16 gauge, and it looks like the switch wiring is 18 or 20 gauge.
These five wires can be connected directly into the door connector (or spliced into the wires) in the front panels described above.
I do not have a switch yet, but have tested it out with a jumper wire from the orange wire in the connector to the light blue for lock, or the white for unlock. Once I get my switch, I will be able to make it all work.
The relay and other wiring are already in place.
Here are the wiring color codes:
Large tan wire - Lock solenoid
Large grey wire - Lock solenoid
Small tan wire - speaker wire (Front doors only)
Small grey wire - speaker wire (Front doors only)
Orange wire - hot power from cigarette lighter fuse
Light blue wire - door lock relay control
White wire - door unlock relay control
I hope this helps someone.