Windows AGAIN
Windows AGAIN
2002 Safari
Know everybody is tired of this,but, Long time member been gone for quite a while playing with the sports cars.
Problem. Windows quit working. Pull the door apart.
Put 12 volts to the motor ,it spins so I think switch. Buy new switch.
Now on this year of a van should the the power from the fuse panel only be .35 volts?
I have continuity thru to the motor on both the blue and the brown wires But even if I put 12 volts to them nothing moves. I have a schematic for the windows and could use some help with this or it goes to the dealer ship
Thanks
Don't remember if I have a sig so,
Don
Know everybody is tired of this,but, Long time member been gone for quite a while playing with the sports cars.
Problem. Windows quit working. Pull the door apart.
Put 12 volts to the motor ,it spins so I think switch. Buy new switch.
Now on this year of a van should the the power from the fuse panel only be .35 volts?
I have continuity thru to the motor on both the blue and the brown wires But even if I put 12 volts to them nothing moves. I have a schematic for the windows and could use some help with this or it goes to the dealer ship
Thanks
Don't remember if I have a sig so,
Don
Re: Windows AGAIN
Driver or Passenger side window?
When you put 12v to the blu and bro wires, do you have those wires
DISconnected from the switches? In the switch resting position, both wires
go to ground. If you were to put 12v to that, you'd surely know about it ASAP.
With everything connected in normal manner, you should get continuity
between VEH GROUND and either the BLU or BRO wire. Or for that matter,
between both the BLU and BRO wire.
PINK is the only wire carrying 12v+ when the switches are in their resting state.
If you're reading 0.35v, I'd bet it's a ground loop you're reading. After your
testing, is the fuse still intact?
This is the schematic I'm working from when I describe colors.
Obviously, colors might vary on different vans.
Lumpy
When you put 12v to the blu and bro wires, do you have those wires
DISconnected from the switches? In the switch resting position, both wires
go to ground. If you were to put 12v to that, you'd surely know about it ASAP.
With everything connected in normal manner, you should get continuity
between VEH GROUND and either the BLU or BRO wire. Or for that matter,
between both the BLU and BRO wire.
PINK is the only wire carrying 12v+ when the switches are in their resting state.
If you're reading 0.35v, I'd bet it's a ground loop you're reading. After your
testing, is the fuse still intact?
This is the schematic I'm working from when I describe colors.
Obviously, colors might vary on different vans.
Lumpy
Re: Windows AGAIN
Here is my real schematic.Lumpy wrote:Driver or Passenger side window?
BOTH
When you put 12v to the blu and bro wires, do you have those wires
DISconnected from the switches?
YES Then I tested the wires to the motor
In the switch resting position, both wires
go to ground. If you were to put 12v to that, you'd surely know about it ASAP.
With everything connected in normal manner, you should get continuity
between VEH GROUND and either the BLU or BRO wire. Or for that matter,
between both the BLU and BRO wire.
PINK is the only wire carrying 12v+ when the switches are in their resting state.
If you're reading 0.35v, I'd bet it's a ground loop you're reading. After your
testing, is the fuse still intact?
Fuse is fine
Lumpy
I was told by my service adviser that there is a body computer on these now and that might be why the voltage is low.
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Re: Windows AGAIN
check the wires going through the boot from the body to the door?
2000 chev blazer 4x4
If its got tits or wheels, its gonna give you problems!
im sure we all know the #1 junk yard rule if it fits in your pocket its free.
If its got tits or wheels, its gonna give you problems!
im sure we all know the #1 junk yard rule if it fits in your pocket its free.
Re: Windows AGAIN
Do you know what the voltage should be on the yellow wire from the fuse panel with a car equipped with a body computer?
Re: Windows AGAIN
Don,
The yellow wire (circuit 343) should have 12 volts on it when the ignition is on.
This is powered up by the 25 amp WINDOWS circuit breaker - maybe it is faulty? Do you have 12 volts to the circuit breaker?
The body control module is only involved in the windows in the fact that it controls the retained accessory power relay, which supplys the power TO the circuit breaker.
The yellow wire (circuit 343) should have 12 volts on it when the ignition is on.
This is powered up by the 25 amp WINDOWS circuit breaker - maybe it is faulty? Do you have 12 volts to the circuit breaker?
The body control module is only involved in the windows in the fact that it controls the retained accessory power relay, which supplys the power TO the circuit breaker.
James from B.C.
1992 Safari - R.I.P.
GM Grand Master Techncian
1992 Safari - R.I.P.
GM Grand Master Techncian
Re: Windows AGAIN
Difficult for me to see that schematic, but if I blow it up it looks like the sameDON wrote: Here is my real schematic.
I was told by my service adviser that there is a body computer on these now and that might be why the voltage is low.
as the one I have.
When I troubleshoot electronics, I start, as you did, at the end point and work
backwards toward the source of current. Sounds like you've done that.
When I get to a failure point, instead of trying to diagnose which wire is
bad, I'll often simply replace the wire(s) in question.
I believe I'd address that low voltage situation at the fuse.
So if I were to address that, I'd deliver 12v, ignition switched,
to that fuse or circuit breaker.
Not much that can go wrong with window motors. It's always
either the motor, switches or wiring between them. The wiring
route is pretty simple and intuitive. The switches probably fail
more than any of the other components in that trio. But in your
case, sounds like you may have ruled those out. I'd then look
at the power source.
Lump
Re: Windows AGAIN
Thanks guys, Had to give up on it and hand it to dealer. I'm pretty sure you all nailed it with a bad wire. I think a big clue to me is, the window hasn't been able to roll up or down when the door is open. So, I think there is a broken wire in the hose connector on the jam.
I have rewired 2 British sports cars of late so I am a little burned out with wiring. I have to go back to work to make some money so I'll let the dealer handle it.
Thanks
Don
I have rewired 2 British sports cars of late so I am a little burned out with wiring. I have to go back to work to make some money so I'll let the dealer handle it.
Thanks
Don
Re: Windows AGAIN
Vans back and 2 wires were semi severed. Cost $70 and I'm back in the saddle. Evan dropped off my door card to my upholstery shop to fix the dreaded arm rest tear.
Happy as a puppy with 2 peters
Happy as a puppy with 2 peters
Re: Windows AGAIN
If you got in and out of a dealer for 70 bucks, that IS a reason toDON wrote:Vans back and 2 wires were semi severed. Cost $70 and I'm back in the saddle. Evan dropped off my door card to my upholstery shop to fix the dreaded arm rest tear.
Happy as a puppy with 2 peters
celebrate.
Lumpy
You Played on Lawrence Welk?
Yes but no blue notes. Just blue hairs.
www.LumpyMusic.com
Re: Windows AGAIN
My guy takes care of me there. Been a customer with Astro and Safari vans since about 1990