Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
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Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
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Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Okay, with a little help from my children I am now a master at loading pictures from my camera to my computer and with the help of a board member I can now upload. Last programming I did was with punch cards and a 2H pencil, anyone else that old?????
So, last night, I disassembled a set of 4.3 heads and started a picture sequence of head modification, I will try and do one major step each week amongst my other responsibilites in life. Note that I painted the combustion chambers florescent orange, I did this with the hope that it will contrast well with machining, not my usual machining dye.
The first thing I always do is run the appropriate bottoming taps into all the blind holes and regular taps into the through-holes.
Machining Exhaust Valve Reliefs, Unshrouding Combustion Chamber.
The stock exhaust valve is badly shrouded by the wall of the combustion chamber, I am putting a 1.60 inch exhaust valve in this head so I am opening up the side walls to give better flow. I use a valve guide centered pilot and a specially cut stellite grinding stone.
A 2 1/4 inch diameter stellite stone is cut with an in-house made diamond tool to give it a 3/8 round contour on the bottom and it is slowly feed down into the combustion chamber until it is cut to a set depth which is 0.050 above the existing exhaust seat. This is not the final cut, when the valve guides are replaced and the new seat is cut an addition cut is made to the final depth. This stone and the bottom shape almost entirely cleans up that area but there is always a little hand work to do.
A mask and safety sheild must be worn as the stone dust if very irritating to the sinus, lungs and throat. The grinders can go up to 12,000 rpm and a chest protector and full face sheild must be worn.
The cut takes the relief to about 0.010 from the edge of the cylinder head gasket.
Please click on the picture and enlarge it so that you can see the extent that the area has been opened up.
Next, opening up the Intake Valve Shrouding.
So, last night, I disassembled a set of 4.3 heads and started a picture sequence of head modification, I will try and do one major step each week amongst my other responsibilites in life. Note that I painted the combustion chambers florescent orange, I did this with the hope that it will contrast well with machining, not my usual machining dye.
The first thing I always do is run the appropriate bottoming taps into all the blind holes and regular taps into the through-holes.
Machining Exhaust Valve Reliefs, Unshrouding Combustion Chamber.
The stock exhaust valve is badly shrouded by the wall of the combustion chamber, I am putting a 1.60 inch exhaust valve in this head so I am opening up the side walls to give better flow. I use a valve guide centered pilot and a specially cut stellite grinding stone.
A 2 1/4 inch diameter stellite stone is cut with an in-house made diamond tool to give it a 3/8 round contour on the bottom and it is slowly feed down into the combustion chamber until it is cut to a set depth which is 0.050 above the existing exhaust seat. This is not the final cut, when the valve guides are replaced and the new seat is cut an addition cut is made to the final depth. This stone and the bottom shape almost entirely cleans up that area but there is always a little hand work to do.
A mask and safety sheild must be worn as the stone dust if very irritating to the sinus, lungs and throat. The grinders can go up to 12,000 rpm and a chest protector and full face sheild must be worn.
The cut takes the relief to about 0.010 from the edge of the cylinder head gasket.
Please click on the picture and enlarge it so that you can see the extent that the area has been opened up.
Next, opening up the Intake Valve Shrouding.
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- I finally get the smurf thing
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Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Like the writeup.
The pictures look good, keep em coming. How much additional horsepower will the reconditioned heads add to a stock 4.3?
The pictures look good, keep em coming. How much additional horsepower will the reconditioned heads add to a stock 4.3?
88 astro high top Sherrod conversion, Rebuilt 4.3z
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- I plan to be buried in my van
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Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
X2 Great Pic. So how much material did you remove? How much bigger in size will the chamber end up. I think Vortecs are 64cc from GM, arent they?Krank88 wrote:Like the writeup. The pictures look good, keep em coming. How much additional horsepower will the reconditioned heads add to a stock 4.3?
2021 Yamaha Tenere 700 - Blue.
2016 Yamaha XSR900 - Silver.
1990 Astro - AWD - Brown.
1987 Astro - With 5 Speed & 4wd - Silver & Blue.
2016 Yamaha XSR900 - Silver.
1990 Astro - AWD - Brown.
1987 Astro - With 5 Speed & 4wd - Silver & Blue.
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Nice.Please do keep the pics coming.
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
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Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Thanks, I deck the block 0.015 to improve the squish effect and give a final deck height of 0.010 inches, and take 0.020 off of the heads, with the pistons and head gasket I use the final compression ratio is 9.87. This effectively restores the combustion chamber volume indirectly. All the chambers will be cc'd. I do it in an interesting way by pre-weighing 50cc syringes of water and injecting them through a silicon port in a plexiglass seal plate then measure the water that is left over, subtracting from the initial, as water weights 1 gram per cc it is very accurate, more accurate than a burretrol. You are correct that the final combustion chamber volume is bigger than the original, but the improvement in flow compensates for any loss of compression. The final chamber volume in other 4.3 motors I have done has been 70cc (corrected 16-10-2011) , after cutting the head, this requires a little juggling, always. That weird nob above the spark plug hole is a great spot to subtract volume and balance chamber volumes.
The exhaust relief cut is 2.250 from the centre line of the exhaust guide, the upsized exhaust valve is 1.60 inches. This gives significant improvement in the exhaust flow, the flow bench shows 11% increase at 0.500 lift and 28 inches of vacuum, with no other modifications. I also top cut the usual 30-45-60 three angle valve job with a 5 degree cut and a zero degree cut,this just makes for less die grinder work on the roof of the chamber. You can see the inherent poor quality of GM casting by the casting dip seen in each of the nice shiny relief cuts. Totally polishing the combustion chamber of a low compression motor is of little or no value as there is no chance of detonation from "hot spots", but it looks nice.
Sorting out which each component on a modified motor contributes would take so many variations of assembly and hours of dyno time. This motor, the 4th that I have build, will be exactly the same as the others, the first of which dynoed at 268 hp. The electric water pump and fan delete makes more hp than a $2500 aftermarket stainless exhaust. (This I dynoed for a customer). 268 hp is not a lot of total power but it is a nice 34% improvement over stock with improved gas mileage, dramatically more low end torque.
Although nothing is "free",($$$$$), "free" hp on this build is gained with full roller rockers, electric water pump, and fan delete. Perhaps one of the great features is fully adjustable rockers, no "morning sickness" with the lifters ticking away. Having a fully adjustable advance curve is also a great benefit.
The exhaust relief cut is 2.250 from the centre line of the exhaust guide, the upsized exhaust valve is 1.60 inches. This gives significant improvement in the exhaust flow, the flow bench shows 11% increase at 0.500 lift and 28 inches of vacuum, with no other modifications. I also top cut the usual 30-45-60 three angle valve job with a 5 degree cut and a zero degree cut,this just makes for less die grinder work on the roof of the chamber. You can see the inherent poor quality of GM casting by the casting dip seen in each of the nice shiny relief cuts. Totally polishing the combustion chamber of a low compression motor is of little or no value as there is no chance of detonation from "hot spots", but it looks nice.
Sorting out which each component on a modified motor contributes would take so many variations of assembly and hours of dyno time. This motor, the 4th that I have build, will be exactly the same as the others, the first of which dynoed at 268 hp. The electric water pump and fan delete makes more hp than a $2500 aftermarket stainless exhaust. (This I dynoed for a customer). 268 hp is not a lot of total power but it is a nice 34% improvement over stock with improved gas mileage, dramatically more low end torque.
Although nothing is "free",($$$$$), "free" hp on this build is gained with full roller rockers, electric water pump, and fan delete. Perhaps one of the great features is fully adjustable rockers, no "morning sickness" with the lifters ticking away. Having a fully adjustable advance curve is also a great benefit.
Last edited by brokenwrench on Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:09 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
The Donor Motor:
I acquired this motor from a friend who has a local garage and he pulled it out of a truck and put in another, story is that it was put in 20,000 km. ago. The thing lost oil pressure and stopped running. It had been rebuild by a local "P.E.R.", professional engine rebuilder. The first thing I noted when I pulled the head bolts out was the severe pain in my foot when the cylinder head slipped off and smashed my foot, thank the Lord for steel toe boots. Both the dowel pins were missing on the right side of the block and I soon found out that one was missing on the left side.
When I flipped it over I found one of the main cap bolts was wrong and had about 1/2 inch of thread into the block, three of the connecting rods had divets sticking out at the mating surface where someone had used something to pry the rod caps off. One rod cap was on backwards, near impossible to do as they come numbered sequentially from the factory and are clearly marked, plus there are the bearing tangs for the uninformed. When I pulled the pistons out the cylinder bores they were heavily crosshatched from being honed, 20,000 km later. More deeply cross hatched than they are today, post overbore and hone, awaiting assembly.
It is hard to say that the valve guides were shot when it was assembled but it is improbable that they became so severely worn in 20,000 km. There were neither knurled (really bad thing to do) nor did they have inserts put in. The valves were factory size stems so no oversize valves were put in. I stuck my dial indicator on the head of one exhaust valve, one that I lifted out an unmeasured distance and there was 0.018 inches of lateral play.
If you look at the right side of the cylinder head in the picture you can see where the head surface is all gouged, maybe with an impact hammer.
This is what competitive pricing has done to the rebuilding business, everyone is looking for the best price.
I acquired this motor from a friend who has a local garage and he pulled it out of a truck and put in another, story is that it was put in 20,000 km. ago. The thing lost oil pressure and stopped running. It had been rebuild by a local "P.E.R.", professional engine rebuilder. The first thing I noted when I pulled the head bolts out was the severe pain in my foot when the cylinder head slipped off and smashed my foot, thank the Lord for steel toe boots. Both the dowel pins were missing on the right side of the block and I soon found out that one was missing on the left side.
When I flipped it over I found one of the main cap bolts was wrong and had about 1/2 inch of thread into the block, three of the connecting rods had divets sticking out at the mating surface where someone had used something to pry the rod caps off. One rod cap was on backwards, near impossible to do as they come numbered sequentially from the factory and are clearly marked, plus there are the bearing tangs for the uninformed. When I pulled the pistons out the cylinder bores they were heavily crosshatched from being honed, 20,000 km later. More deeply cross hatched than they are today, post overbore and hone, awaiting assembly.
It is hard to say that the valve guides were shot when it was assembled but it is improbable that they became so severely worn in 20,000 km. There were neither knurled (really bad thing to do) nor did they have inserts put in. The valves were factory size stems so no oversize valves were put in. I stuck my dial indicator on the head of one exhaust valve, one that I lifted out an unmeasured distance and there was 0.018 inches of lateral play.
If you look at the right side of the cylinder head in the picture you can see where the head surface is all gouged, maybe with an impact hammer.
This is what competitive pricing has done to the rebuilding business, everyone is looking for the best price.
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
brokenwrench wrote:Thanks, I deck the block 0.015 to improve the squish effect and give a final deck height of 0.010 inches, and take 0.020 off of the heads, with the pistons and head gasket I use the final compression ratio is 9.87. This effectively restores the combustion chamber volume indirectly. All the chambers will be cc'd. I do it in an interesting way by pre-weighing 50cc syringes of water and injecting them through a silicon port in a plexiglass seal plate then measure the water that is left over, subtracting from the initial, as water weights 1 gram per cc it is very accurate, more accurate than a burretrol. You are correct that the final combustion chamber volume is bigger than the original, but the improvement in flow compensates for any loss of compression. The final chamber volume in other 4.3 motors I have done has been 67cc, after cutting the head, this requires a little juggling, always. That weird nob above the spark plug hole is a great spot to subtract weight and balance chamber volumes.
The exhaust relief cut is 2.250 from the centre line of the exhaust guide, the upsized exhaust valve is 1.60 inches. This gives significant improvement in the exhaust flow, the flow bench shows 11% increase at 0.500 lift and 28 inches of vacuum, with no other modifications. I also top cut the usual 30-45-60 three angle valve job with a 5 degree cut and a zero degree cut,this just makes for less die grinder work on the roof of the chamber. You can see the inherent poor quality of GM casting by the casting dip seen in each of the nice shiny relief cuts. Totally polishing the combustion chamber of a low compression motor is of little or no value as there is no chance of detonation from "hot spots", but it looks nice.
Sorting out which each component on a modified motor contributes would take so many variations of assembly and hours of dyno time. This motor, the 4th that I have build, will be exactly the same as the others, the first of which dynoed at 268 hp. The electric water pump and fan delete makes more hp than a $2500 aftermarket stainless exhaust. (This I dynoed for a customer). 268 hp is not a lot of total power but it is a nice 34% improvement over stock with improved gas mileage, dramatically more low end torque.
Although nothing is "free",($$$$$), "free" hp on this build is gained with full roller rockers, electric water pump, and fan delete. Perhaps one of the great features is fully adjustable rockers, no "morning sickness" with the lifters ticking away. Having a fully adjustable advance curve is also a great benefit.
Ok-.010 down is a common cut for decks.Well either that or 0.
So your saying it is .030 over.
5.75 rod
3.45 stroke
67cc head
.010 down
What is the cc for the pistons??.
I occurred to me that 9.87 scr is kind of high for a cast head with today's gas.Is there a knock sensor in play??.Maybe your playing with the cam timing or design and ignition timing or both.
Just curious,how did the torque curve look on the dyno'ed engine.Sure would be cool to see that graft. :-k
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
-
Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
stroke is 3.48 inches, this block is bored 0.030 over, did I mention that?, I looked back in my notes and the combustion chamber volume ends up being 70cc, my apologies. the pistons are flycut decreasing the volume to -8cc, there are no clearance problems with the camshafts I have used but research others have done shows some improvement in flow around the valves and piston head. Inherently makes sense but I have no interest to test the theory, only to follow it.
The final gasket I will use is a laser cut copper gasket, 1/16th inch
As you know, static and dynamic compression ratios are different and dependent on the overlap of the camshaft.
compression distance / pin height is 1.563 inches
deck height 9.010 inches
bore 4.030 inches
rod length 5.75 inches
stroke 3.48 inches
piston dome volume is -8cc
head gasket is 0.062 inches
combustion chamber volume 70cc
I use an adjustable distributor from NAPA that came from an earlier 4.3, 1985 I think, I have the part number somewhere, I will find it. There are numerous distributors from the usual sellers, MSD, Davis, Proform, Accel, Mallory that have vacuum mechanical advance potential. Distributors are surprising easy to modify, I retrofit electronic pickups in antique tractors often. Like Holley carbs, there is ample opportunity to "tweak" but most just bolt them in an go. Timing curves are only dependent on your budget, if you can afford it, MSD can hook you up with a fully programmable box to plug into you laptop and you can set timing at any RPM and gear, all in about $1200 I think. I have had no complaints about pinging,
Both the block and heads have provisions for knock sensors, I do not know if every version of the 4.3 has one, none or both but there are flat areas on some of the heads that we routinely drill and plug to make the heads "generic" for any application. There are similar plugs in the block. For some reason GM uses a recessed plug with a 5/16 square socket for which there is no tool in the known universe make to take it out. So I have a piece of hardened shafting keyway bar stock tig welded into an impact socket.
I will take this motor when finished to the local dyno and video tape it and try and blow it up. Any suggestions on which video camera to buy? My last had plug in VCR tapes, 1986 I think, still have it somewhere, batteries are bigger than hand held cameras now.
9.87 with cast iron is no problem, 9.87 with todays gas depends if you want to put in the bottom end or top end grade. the highest pump grade here is 92 octane. This engine can be run on 87 octane, with a 165 degree thermostat and some easy reprogramming which i have nothing to do with, my "guy" does it. This motor is going into a factory electronic system in a 2004 Safari Van. If it pings, I call nerd boy out to fix it.
The final gasket I will use is a laser cut copper gasket, 1/16th inch
As you know, static and dynamic compression ratios are different and dependent on the overlap of the camshaft.
compression distance / pin height is 1.563 inches
deck height 9.010 inches
bore 4.030 inches
rod length 5.75 inches
stroke 3.48 inches
piston dome volume is -8cc
head gasket is 0.062 inches
combustion chamber volume 70cc
I use an adjustable distributor from NAPA that came from an earlier 4.3, 1985 I think, I have the part number somewhere, I will find it. There are numerous distributors from the usual sellers, MSD, Davis, Proform, Accel, Mallory that have vacuum mechanical advance potential. Distributors are surprising easy to modify, I retrofit electronic pickups in antique tractors often. Like Holley carbs, there is ample opportunity to "tweak" but most just bolt them in an go. Timing curves are only dependent on your budget, if you can afford it, MSD can hook you up with a fully programmable box to plug into you laptop and you can set timing at any RPM and gear, all in about $1200 I think. I have had no complaints about pinging,
Both the block and heads have provisions for knock sensors, I do not know if every version of the 4.3 has one, none or both but there are flat areas on some of the heads that we routinely drill and plug to make the heads "generic" for any application. There are similar plugs in the block. For some reason GM uses a recessed plug with a 5/16 square socket for which there is no tool in the known universe make to take it out. So I have a piece of hardened shafting keyway bar stock tig welded into an impact socket.
I will take this motor when finished to the local dyno and video tape it and try and blow it up. Any suggestions on which video camera to buy? My last had plug in VCR tapes, 1986 I think, still have it somewhere, batteries are bigger than hand held cameras now.
9.87 with cast iron is no problem, 9.87 with todays gas depends if you want to put in the bottom end or top end grade. the highest pump grade here is 92 octane. This engine can be run on 87 octane, with a 165 degree thermostat and some easy reprogramming which i have nothing to do with, my "guy" does it. This motor is going into a factory electronic system in a 2004 Safari Van. If it pings, I call nerd boy out to fix it.
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Great write up and great pictures.
I have been looking for a thread like this for a long time, keep the info coming and good luck
I have been looking for a thread like this for a long time, keep the info coming and good luck
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Yeah-that was a typo on the stroke I posted.brokenwrench wrote:stroke is 3.48 inches, this block is bored 0.030 over, did I mention that?, I looked back in my notes and the combustion chamber volume ends up being 70cc, my apologies. the pistons are flycut decreasing the volume to -8cc, there are no clearance problems with the camshafts I have used but research others have done shows some improvement in flow around the valves and piston head. Inherently makes sense but I have no interest to test the theory, only to follow it.
The final gasket I will use is a laser cut copper gasket, 1/16th inch
As you know, static and dynamic compression ratios are different and dependent on the overlap of the camshaft.
compression distance / pin height is 1.563 inches
deck height 9.010 inches
bore 4.030 inches
rod length 5.75 inches
stroke 3.48 inches
piston dome volume is -8cc
head gasket is 0.062 inches
combustion chamber volume 70cc
I use an adjustable distributor from NAPA that came from an earlier 4.3, 1985 I think, I have the part number somewhere, I will find it. There are numerous distributors from the usual sellers, MSD, Davis, Proform, Accel, Mallory that have vacuum mechanical advance potential. Distributors are surprising easy to modify, I retrofit electronic pickups in antique tractors often. Like Holley carbs, there is ample opportunity to "tweak" but most just bolt them in an go. Timing curves are only dependent on your budget, if you can afford it, MSD can hook you up with a fully programmable box to plug into you laptop and you can set timing at any RPM and gear, all in about $1200 I think. I have had no complaints about pinging,
Both the block and heads have provisions for knock sensors, I do not know if every version of the 4.3 has one, none or both but there are flat areas on some of the heads that we routinely drill and plug to make the heads "generic" for any application. There are similar plugs in the block. For some reason GM uses a recessed plug with a 5/16 square socket for which there is no tool in the known universe make to take it out. So I have a piece of hardened shafting keyway bar stock tig welded into an impact socket.
I will take this motor when finished to the local dyno and video tape it and try and blow it up. Any suggestions on which video camera to buy? My last had plug in VCR tapes, 1986 I think, still have it somewhere, batteries are bigger than hand held cameras now.
9.87 with cast iron is no problem, 9.87 with todays gas depends if you want to put in the bottom end or top end grade. the highest pump grade here is 92 octane. This engine can be run on 87 octane, with a 165 degree thermostat and some easy reprogramming which i have nothing to do with, my "guy" does it. This motor is going into a factory electronic system in a 2004 Safari Van. If it pings, I call nerd boy out to fix it.
What is the stock head cc??.Are they 72cc's??.
Wow-the is a big head gasket.Not using a .040??.
DCR-is that a custom grind cam??.Humm-what is a duration and lobe centers??.
I still have a new never used HEI 4.3 vac advance that is set up by Jen-Cen for full advance at 1,500 rpm left from my Bowtie 4.3 build.PM me if you would be interested in it.I'll never use it and it's just setting in the shop in a bag.
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
-
Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
I have no idea what the stock combustion chamber volume is, whatever the factory full roller motor had. The exhaust cut I make is very big, if you click a few times on the picture and imagine the original curvature you can see how close it goes to the edge. Actually, you can see the impression of the previous head gasket.
I use a copper gasket for several reasons, one reason is that the meat between combustion chambers gets narrowed and copper does seal better, all be it, expensive. I also am preparing this engine for a blower in the future. So the engine will get copper gasket and head studs. There is very limited selections of copper sheet thickness available and it cannot be machined for thickness, has to be rolled under pressure, hence the 1/16th inch thickness, convenient.
The cam I used on the last 3 motors was;
Comp Cams
CCA-18-412-8
36584780649
Cam Style
Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-4,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 210
Duration at 050 inch Lift 206 int./210 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 266
Advertised Duration 260 int./266 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 int./0.500 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number C43 260AH-R12
Dynamic compression ration is what really happens when you spin a motor versus calculated compression ratio, no easy was to measure it on paper, you have to put on a compression gauge and turn over the motor.
hope this helps
I use a copper gasket for several reasons, one reason is that the meat between combustion chambers gets narrowed and copper does seal better, all be it, expensive. I also am preparing this engine for a blower in the future. So the engine will get copper gasket and head studs. There is very limited selections of copper sheet thickness available and it cannot be machined for thickness, has to be rolled under pressure, hence the 1/16th inch thickness, convenient.
The cam I used on the last 3 motors was;
Comp Cams
CCA-18-412-8
36584780649
Cam Style
Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-4,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 210
Duration at 050 inch Lift 206 int./210 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 266
Advertised Duration 260 int./266 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 int./0.500 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number C43 260AH-R12
Dynamic compression ration is what really happens when you spin a motor versus calculated compression ratio, no easy was to measure it on paper, you have to put on a compression gauge and turn over the motor.
hope this helps
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
How about machining in rings in the deck for a blower??.
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
Mike here is acouple of sites you might find useful.
The first is nice because you just plug in your known values and it gives you the result:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/automotiveconverters.html
The second one has tons of formulas that are very good to bookmark:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
The first is nice because you just plug in your known values and it gives you the result:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/automotiveconverters.html
The second one has tons of formulas that are very good to bookmark:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
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Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
1Gary wrote:How about machining in rings in the deck for a blower??.
that is often recommended but for street pressures, maybe not so important, but then what are street pressures these days.
Last edited by brokenwrench on Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:35 pm
Re: Modifying 4.3 cylinder heads, with pictures, Step 1,
wow, thanks,1Gary wrote:Mike here is acouple of sites you might find useful.
The first is nice because you just plug in your known values and it gives you the result:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/automotiveconverters.html
The second one has tons of formulas that are very good to bookmark:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm