Heater Control Valve, Hoses, W/Aux Heat

[speedway73]

Hey Guys!

Let me start out by saying what an awesome site this is. VERY informative.

I'm a new member and need your input. I've got a '96 Astro 2WD/RWD LT extended. 6 port Heater Control Valve took a crap so out it came for replacement. Vac lines all need replacement too. No big deal there. What I need help with is...factory GM part numbers for the 2 hoses in the pic. The short, straight piece (we'll refer to as UPPER in the pic) and the curved piece (LOWER in pic), I cannot find GM part numbers for. The straight piece..no biggie. Standard aftermarket stuff at O'Reillys, AutoZone, Advance, NAPA....etc,etc. The molded curved piece?? Not so much. The offerings from said auto parts stores is just a 90* elbow. The factory part is 90* with a twist. But you guys knew that. ;)

From what I've read...the aftermarket heater control valve assemblies don't like any undue pressure on the fittings, causing cracks and failure. It's already a PITA to get this assembly out of there so I'd rather go with OEM hoses if I can. All hoses are getting replaced at this time so I might as well do it once and do it right.

Does anyone have the factory OEM GM part #'s for these hoses?

Thanks Much!!

Roger Sibilsky
Dahlonega, GA.

[Astrophysics]

Hi,

Good luck on the valve. Take some photos with your cell phone before you dis assemble any hoses and valve. Also, use blue painters tape and label parts with a Sharpie.
Then as your take parts off , set them in a flat card board box and lay them in order , then mark the card board with pencil around the parts, aka shadow box. This extra time helps with re assembly.

Hopefully, you can get proper parts or maybe go to pic your part yard.

My 2003 AWD passenger van with aux heater has not failed yet, 130,000 miles

AP

[Astrophysics]

Hi Again,

Wow good photo.
I used to have a 1994 Chevy G20 sport van with aux heater.

Maybe the parts house can check if that valve is close to what you need.

AP

[speedway73]

I have new valves. It's finding that lower hose in the pic is the hard part. Discontinued. :( Lightweight silicone hose with a 90* bend would work too I'll bet.

[justice]

Try RockAuto...maybe one of these is what you need.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chev ... +pipe,6892

[speedway73]

Justice..

I spent a little time last nite at Rockauto and *think* this may work.

[Vanjoe]

Im in the middle of this same project replacing the 2 hose rear valve and figured to do the 6 hose valve also. 3 days in the garage so far.
BUT>>>> I've seen a thread somewhere where someone replaced the 2 hose rear valve with a household plumbing shut off valve.
I want to do this for 2 reasons.... freaking plastic parts break and when I look inside the nipple on the valve, its restricted down to a 1/4 inch hole!!!!! Seems to me it is so restrictive, it could be why my rear heat is never as hot as my front heat.

Im searching for that thread but if anyone has a link to it.......

Also decided to replace my water pump while its all torn apart. Last fall I replaced...... steering pump, AC compressor, 145 amp alternator, a couple pulleys. Next time I need to tear out everything under the hood for a repair.... I'm shooting myself instead! ](*,)

[blacknome]

having replaced that valve twice in the last 10 years I feel you pain. I actually have the hose you are looking for in my toolbox. It goes from the valve to the hard steel line mounted to the body. In the northern vehicles the rear heat lines like to rot where they are mounted to the frame so last fall I replaced both my lines from the valve right back to the rear heat unit with 5/8 heater hose ( fwiw one of the rear heat exchanger inlet lines is 3/4" so it needs an adaptor to bump up the line size. I like to use the heavy grey plastic ones from the plumbing section at HD ).

If I may suggest you can take off the PS front wheel and splash guard to gain a little more access to the unit. As well if you remove the air intake housing and upper fan shroud it makes it a little easier to gain access. As mentioned the plastic gets pretty brittle so I prefer to only use the snap compression fittings as factory did when mounting the new hoses.

Vanjoe - the rear heat will never be as hot as the front as the coolant has 6' of exposed line to travel thru before it hits the heat exchanger. Along the way its bolted to the body further dissipating the heat. I noticed a slight improvement this last winter when I switch over from steel to rubber lines.

Speedway - you mention replacing the vacuum lines, don't forget the vacuum reservoir line. Its easier to get to with the PS front wheel off. Mine was cracked and caused me grief with AC and rear heat for years.

Good luck

[AquaAngel]

I removed mine, what a pain it is to deal with valves all over your van. you may not agree with me, but i bypassed all of them.

[Vanjoe]

I found hoses!
I went to 2 stores and asked to see their hoses. I bought 3 that were close to the shape of the 2 curved hoses and was able to u get both out of one hose.
P side tire is off. Air cleaner, fan shroud and fan are off. Valves and hoses are all set. Now on to water pump.