Chevy & GMC Vans

Every thing I have ever read, when you get a sulpher smell, thats the catalytic converter.

Thanks for y'allz inputs/info.

Update:
Cat now replaced. ($180 for the cat, $150 for the install; thanks to my boss for footin' the bill... =D> )
Yes, it WAS fried.
Back end of cat melted/fused/fractured.
Continued driving blew chunks down the pipe into the muffler.
Now I've got a strangled muffler; cat chunks blocking the air flow.
Still runs, but sticky/hesitations.

I'm going under today to remove the muffler and bang it around to see if I can bump the chunks out.
Time and elbow grease may save me ~250 sheckles if I don't HAVE to replace the muffler.

Still getting the 'crankshaft sensor' error code. (P1345)
Anyone have any idea where this sensor is located so I can bump it a bit and/or replace it?
The Haynes manual is a bit of a joke on some of these finicky doodads.

safarirod wrote:Every thing I have ever read, when you get a sulpher smell, thats the catalytic converter.

I know I'm late on this topic, I always used the rule of thumb about every five years or 80000 miles to replace the cat. The first indication is stumbling, and loss of mileage and then a rich smell at idle coming from the tailpipe.

I've done this with all my vehicles and so far I have had pretty good results with saving at the gas pump.

Yep, I'm now the winner of the 'Huh!!! I thought cat converters lasted longer than that...' award. ](*,)
Probably doesn't help that my freeway speeds vary from 75-90 during longer distances.
I guess I CAN burn a cat up. :-k
At least now I know how they work and what they're made of.
And I think they warrantee 'em for 8 yrs or 80K...

Shook the muffler out, popped loose a 2" x 3" chunk outa the intake end.
And a number of smaller chunks...
Running better, but not back to where it was when I purchased.
Now for the delve in through the dog house to see if said tune-up actually occurred prior to my buy.

And where IS that crankshaft sensor?
(Still getting the 'dreaded' 1345 code...but no other codes...)

The P1345 dtc monitors the Crank and Cam position sensors to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the Control Module (VCM) within a narrow time window, it will set a 1345.

The cam sensor is inside the distributor, have you moved it or is it loose? Check the cap and rotor making sure that the rotor is not loose on the shaft. A worn timing chain can also cause this problem, I have some Alldata info that I will scan and post up tonight.

Ahhhhhhhhhhh, thank you, good sir!!! =D>
Makes more sense now.

Distrib has not been moved since I bought the beast.

I'm to the point of taking it to a shop for a diagnostic.
I'm willing to pay the tab to have a pro check it out and fill me in.
Wit's end; lack of time to dig in myself; poor experience with FI stuff.
The shop worked on my 94 already; did good work and are decent fellers. (Comtec in Rancho Cordova)

When I purchased the 99, I DID notice some minor glitches in how it drove from a dead stop.
Occasional hesitations, occasional troubles letting go of first to get in to second, would NOT respond to a flooring at 55-60...had to back the pedal down and pop it 2/3-3/4 of the way to the floor, and a few other more minor ones.

My 94 FI responds quite well to my commands; I was a bit taken aback by the finicky side of my 99.
I chalked it up to a different FI system than I have in my 94 and that it might need some tlc/work in the future.

Since I've replaced the cat and cleaned out most all the cat doo from the muffler, it still runs.
But not as well as it did when I bought it.
Gas mileage has dropped 4 mpg's, occasional major hesitations from a start at various times of day; the timing just feels 'off'.
I'm assuming that it had some glitches when purchased; and that blowing the cat up was not helpful at all. ](*,)

We'll see what the shop boys have to say, hopefully this Fri...

At least they don't have to do an alignment or replace the shocks this time...man, them boys was cussin' pretty serious under their breath when I had 'em do that on my 94...

A rich running condition can ruin your cat, and along with your loss in mpg may point to problems with your fuel spider. There is an updated version available, which is definately worth fitting I just did one on a 2001 S10 with a W motor, hopefully your auto shop is experienced with the Chevy 4.3 issues.

Code P1345 You will need a decent scanner to test for this code.

SoCalli V8 wrote:A rich running condition can ruin your cat, and along with your loss in mpg may point to problems with your fuel spider. There is an updated version available, which is definately worth fitting I just did one on a 2001 S10 with a W motor, hopefully your auto shop is experienced with the Chevy 4.3 issues.

that new injector spider makes a big difference really? i want to rip that restrictor out so doing the spider at the same time would be perfect if it's worth the money that is

If your "W" motor has a rough idle on startup, misfire codes (after a full tune-up using AC Delco parts) next step would be to have your fuel-spider poppet injectors pressure cleaned at the GM dealer.

The poppets get deposit build up on them causing the poppet ball to stick open or closed, causing that cylinder to be mis-fueled.

If the problem still persists after cleaning, fitting the updated fuel spider (which has electronic injectors) should be performed.

Let me know if you want one of these spider and gasket kits, as I get a good discount at my Chevy dealer.

meh my injectors are alright for now we sell the delphi kit here not a bad price but i have no really problems just an exhaust leak at intake manifold

Hi, there have been reports of the distributor gear developing an "apple core" (teeth worn out in the middle) problem and running intermittently and poorly. See if you can wiggle the rotor back and forth much, or pull the distibutor out to see what shape the drive gear is in. Make sure you note where the rotor is pointing first, before pulling the distributor, so that you can put in back in the same place to keep the timing correct.

The beast is still alive, and now well enough to roll consistently.
I have not been arrested for setting off explosives in public or littering the environment with blowed-up auto parts.

cudapaul gets the 'door prize'... =D>

'Member that diagnostic I was threatening to get done?
Forced into it, but now back on the tarmac.

Coming home from job site in Fresno, beast took a serious dump.
Just quit. At 85. Hwy 99. Overpass construction zone. NICE! ](*,)
Rolled off safely. Would NOT start.

Towed back to Merced.
To a GM dealer...good and bad.
Good they agreed to a diagnostic the following day, bad on the potential cost factor.
I rented an HHR, got home. Used it for work the next day.
Nice little freeway bullet!
Unfortunately, the dealership could not turn my brick into a rocket.
Ehhh well....
They DID get a good chuckle out of my request.

Diagnostic results:
That P1345 code?
They said I needed a new distrib.
Distrib gear had some SERIOUS dental problems.
Teeth on about 1/4 of the gear were ground to almost nothing.
Not quite the 'apple core' look, but damn close.
Cost me 600 and change JUST to get the beast started.
No, I didn't think to have them just replace the distrib gear.
Being 150 miles away at a job site, and wanting my van back in so many ways, I went with it.

The misfiring/sluggish/choking probs?
MAF Sensor had fritzed out.
400 and change to get that fixed.
Not much choice on limp home as-is or repair.

Oh, two quarts low on oil...only a few sheckles for that...

I made it from Larkspur to Merced to pick it up before close of biz.
Barely, but made it.

Runs like a civilized van now.
Whew!!!
I thought I'd blown out the new cat; not the case.
I would have taken forever to think of and find the offending distrib gear.
MAF sensor?
Ehhhhh. When they fry, they fry.
Only thrown code was an occasional P101.

I made sure they bagged and tagged the parts.
Have 'em in my 'last chunk of change spent on this...' trophy case.
Any of youz wanna buy a 99 distrib with funky teeth? (jk...sorta... )

Since the white beast is now functional, I'm off to sell the 94 to recoup some of my Benjamin outlay.
It's been drove hard and put away wet during my 3 years with it, but runs decently...

Thanks for all the input/suggests you folks have chipped in.

Yikes, $1000 repair! I guess after 185k, you can't be surprised those items needed attention. It just would have been nice to diagnose and repair yourself to save a bit. I would have struggled for days to figure all that out if at all. It is nice just to write the check once in awhile.