Chevy & GMC Vans

Rockey,
That block is a 1996 4 bolt from the casting numbers on the back.10243880 is the number on the back.I am not pulling the intake manifold to keep it clean inside.I'll let the machine shop do that.Sooo if that is the case,you guys just make my day alittle brighter.Cool

Sorry, I should proof read my posts more carefully. I was thinking 880 but typed 808. You should be able to see if it is machined by looking through the distributor hole.

10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal

Rockwerx wrote:Sorry, I should proof read my posts more carefully. I was thinking 880 but typed 808. You should be able to see if it is machined by looking through the distributor hole.

Yeah-one of the tools I have always wanted and never bought was one of those flexable headed flashlights.

Let me get this straight Gary. You are asking people to work out how much to convert your block to roller setup even though you have not even physically checked yourself what it has now?

lockdoc wrote:Let me get this straight Gary. You are asking people to work out how much to convert your block to roller setup even though you have not even physically checked yourself what it has now?

No Bill,I have looked down the dist hole to see.There wasn't any roller retainers from what I saw.Yeah,I guess taking off the intake is the best way for me to go.I'll take pic's.

Well i pulled the intake.For sure not a roller.It was kind of late and dark.From what i see the bosses have been machined.Going to take a better look tomorrow earlier.Here is the pics for now.





So for the roller conversion-how much should I expect to spend??.

BTW-I might have found the high idle issue.There where lots of the intake bolts not very tight.Humm?????.

Go to a wrecker to get your roller retainer hardware. Then all you need is new roller lifters and a cam...unless you want to take a chance on some used roller lifters. You will also have to check if you have the self centering rocker arms...if not then pick some up at the wreckers. Also you will need the roller cam retainer that goes behind the cam timing gear to hold the cam in the block.

Like Rockwerx stated, it looks like all you need is stock roller bolt on stuff to make it a roller. No machining needed.

should of hit me earlier in the year I sold all the internals in my roller 383 for around 1000 including the heads intake and carb. I had forged pistons, comp roller cam, 383 crank steel, roller rockers, double timing chain, pro comp heads steel, aluminum intake, edelbrok carb , etc. I ended up with the block and building for a 177 blower with all new forged and roller parts and aluminum heads. link to my new build viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2993

The spider roller lifter retainder I have acouple of questions.Is it possible a used one could loose some of it's tension??.Sort of why I am thinking of a new one.Do they have a lift limitation??.

GEJ wrote:The spider roller lifter retainder I have acouple of questions.Is it possible a used one could loose some of it's tension??.Sort of why I am thinking of a new one.Do they have a lift limitation??.

All the retainer does is hold down the roller orientation plates so it should not loose tension over time. I have used the stock setup with some very radicle cams and not had any trouble using a used retainer. Are there many auto wreckers where you are living?

Rockwerx wrote:

GEJ wrote:The spider roller lifter retainder I have acouple of questions.Is it possible a used one could loose some of it's tension??.Sort of why I am thinking of a new one.Do they have a lift limitation??.

All the retainer does is hold down the roller orientation plates so it should not loose tension over time. I have used the stock setup with some very radicle cams and not had any trouble using a used retainer. Are there many auto wreckers where you are living?

Yes-there are a number of j/y's in my area.Might go that route for the roller cam conversion,but I am not considering used lifters.

On another question,back at NECO 07 we talked about my intended use of this van and a V8 swap.It was stated that I should stick to a 350 from a truck from the yrs of 1990 to 1994.That I wanted gas mileage and outstanding performance.That I wanted to build for long mileage use and for long trips.It was suggested I might even want to go carb'ed.For the most part I have stuck to that outline.I did buy 1996 and still want a TBI.Given finnally I.D.'ing the engine in that it is a 4 bolt main machined for a roller,and the fact that I don't want to do this twice,I am tempted to go for a 383 with it.I wonder what it would use for gas over a 350.It is still a van for my fleamarket business for long trips towing my small vendor trailer and will be my primary source of transportation.The sole purpose behind going thru a low mileage engine like this is to insure a clean no problems end result of the swap and yrs of sound service with a cam,heads,roller rockers.I am trying to temper my hot rodder heart with common sense and still not be disapointed with the outcome.Man,choices!!!. ](*,) ](*,)

If you are going to be towing most of the time then the stroker would be my choice. What I have found over the years is that the larger engines deliver better fuel economy when in a towing situation. The main reason is the added low end torque from the longer stroke. That being said...it does not look like you are towing a very heavy trailer so a torque orientated 355 would work well. If it had been my van project I would have tried the 350 before I rebuilt it to see how it performed.

Oh yeah, you will also need shorter pushrods with the roller lifter setup. Do you have a pushrod length checking tool? If not I can tell you how to fabricate one.

This Scat kit might work well:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

I didn't expect to be stuck in Roch NY again this winter,but with all the delays at the shop that droped the sub frame,might be able to pick up the parts at auction show specials in Syr NY,Indy drag racers auction,or at a Dave Dayton shows this winter.I have seen show specials at the Dave & Ed shows in Ohio too.

Anyone think 18 to 20 MPG is do-able towing with 3.73 rearend gears??.