Chevy & GMC Vans

Well right now I am throwing them on top of my flaming wallet. #-o

Gotta pay to play. I blew out trans #2, next one is going to be "beefier" I hope.

You going to do a 80??

1Gary wrote:You going to do a 80??

Got one already, as well as a kit for a 60 and a brand new core 60. If I keep the 60 I can "fix" some of the mistakes I made on the first one. I am wanting to do a home brew controller for the 80 though. It's an in progress right now.

That sure would be a cool thread to follow.Maybe you could post your builds.

While I have had to wait alittle bit to get the bearings for this engine,the thought occurred to me I am wanting to buy a new oil pump for it.It is a question of a high volume or high pressure pump???. Opinions please.

Actually I'd pull the original apart, do some light blue printing and keep it if it's an older design. Read this.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... ht=melling

They sure as hell don't make em like they used to.

High volume...........it's more important to have lots of oil than to have lots of pressure. It's always been my understanding that small block Chevys don't need anything more than 50 psi.

Smiliesafari wrote:High volume...........it's more important to have lots of oil than to have lots of pressure. It's always been my understanding that small block Chevys don't need anything more than 50 psi.

this is highly dependant on bearing clearance. race motors run a lot looser and the theory is that the oil forms a wave on a journal and the pressure need becomes dependant on rpm. pressure is necessary to prevent the crankshaft from colliding with the bearings. the film is maintained by pressure. the general rule is 10 pounds per 1000 rpm. engines built for longevity run tighter clearances and it is easier to maintain pressure. oil pumps use a surprising amount of energy to turn. then there is the issues of oil sticking to moving parts and all the efforts to scrape the oil off.

I was reading a thread the other day somewhere about how all of the oil pumps were made by the same company, and packaged for a lot of big companies like sealed power, moroso etc..
Anyways, They said these pumps had a nasty habit of busting off at their wimpy mount and falling into the pan, on SBC engines that were built for big power & torque, when you hit the gas.
Sounds like a nice experience eh? It showed that both the regular, high volume pumps used the same crappy housing. I think the brand they were recommending was called Select, but not positive. Wish I could remember where i saw that thread, but you know the ol memory is the first to go eh? ANyways, my point is that you might want to look into that before you decide on your pump purchase.

Oh hey, the computer has a bettwer memory than me... Here ya go...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... ht=melling

Thank you.I'm looking at that.Which high pressure or high volume depends on how the clearances work out on the bearings.The kings bearings I am using are normally on the loose side and I have to wait to see how that pans out.

Acouple more pcs of the 383 puzzle:






The rods are press fitted and mounted to the rods.Also the rear main seal adapter.Just the bearings away from having a short block.................

Look nice. Forged? Looks like a decent sized dish on those about 20cc?

18cc

Small block swap looks like a good deal. Aluminum block/heads would even save some weight. For more power only, I'd have to investigate the old turbo system they used on the S10 "Syclone/Typhoon" 4.3, if you could get the turbo goodies to fit the astro frame..
Are you planning a rear swap too for that added power? Just got here, cool project, I'll stay tuned..