Chevy & GMC Vans

Well I looked to a section and couldn't decide where to post this.Thought it deserved a thread anyways.

So here is what I did in parts:

The Battery ground is 0/1 and although I haven't finished the engine to chassis ground yet,I have the parts in cable and solder ends with self tapping hex heads to do that.

I bought for this and so many other reasons a dual terminal(side posts and top posts)Interstate battery.Clean all the OEM terminals and I am using the side posts for that.The top posts I used for the wire from the Alt and the battery ground.

The positive cable is a number 2 wire with a solder end on the Alt and the normal top post terminal.

So yesterday I decided I needed to work on the van.Oh btw,it is a 94 LT A/C "W" engine with a 105 Alt.Try as I may I couldn't get to the terminal of the Alt by going from the doghouse.I have been dreading having to deal with the belt and tension-or.Little did I know what I was in for at that point.So I saw two bolts holding the alt in the front.So ok I removed those and the alt was still being held in somehow in the bracket which includes the tension-or/idler pulley.I felt around the back of it and looked from inside the van and could feel or see anything.Nada-nothing.Sooooooooooooo there are three bolts holding on the bracket-two sunken in the bracket where you can't see the holes and one on the bottom.Yeah I took them off,got the connections made and found one more bolt for a brace that in no way you could get to it to remove the Alt.It is between the back of the bracket and the valve cover.I tried some studs I use to line up trannies to engines I made yrs ago that are starter bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut into the end.I fought and fought to get this now heavy bracket lined up with two line up studs that I made.Finally I got it lined up and got two bolts tighten down getting one of the line up studs out,but the second one would not come out.I got it out of the hole and try as I may with a magnet it would not come out of the bracket hole.So I took the bolts out to start it all over.Up,down,up,down I was struggling with it to get now by freehand to just line up one bolt to pivot it towards the other two.It kept try to tilt towards the outside of the holes.I tried to tie it up with clothes line and nope no dice.I have two line up old screwdrivers that have been ground to line up blind holes like this,so I ground them to a point and got lucky to catch one bolt into a hole.Fought and fought more and finally got it bolted back together.

The GM engineer that thought up that system of the bracket,alt attachment system,SHOULD NOT BE allowed to breath air.Caveman like design.What a major PITA .And I am one who will step back and figure things like this out.What would be much better is one pivot long bolt that is threaded into the back of the bracket and the other one in the front to hold the alt in place.Gezzzzzzzzz

So I have one more easy part yet to do.The 0/1 ground wire to the engine.I keep looking for a dramatic change and honestly I still have 12+ with the engine off and 14+ in the charging system with what doesn't look it has done much at all.I think Zam had done something with his headlight harness too,but i don't remember the details and maybe he could fill in the blanks about that.

Cost with the cable(some leftover) and ends( with some leftover too) about $70.00 bucks.

This isn't one of those jobs where pictures where even remotely possible.I'll get you a hint why.As I backed out of the shop at three in the morning thinking what a bad day I had.......

Hey Gary. Where is the engine to chassis ground cable supposed to be? I'd like to inspect it when I replace my dead alternator.

Honestly the OEM's I don't know other than there are tons of them.What I am doing is running one independent of the OEM ones.I was told to run it off the Alt bracket,but that is aluminum.

Having to replace Alt's and remove the bracket is truly a huge PITA.Bring your dictionary for swear words.

One the subject of ground connections, I spotted some while replacing my alternator. Maybe they will help someone troubleshoot electrical gremlins.

From the dog house. Here's one under the distributor. And a close-up. This is under the hood, right next to the thermostat housing.

I am confused. Where you replacing the alternator? You can just double up the output wire from the alternator to the battery. AD 244 alternator bolts right in and comes in 150 and 200 amps.

Who's post are you confused about?

The wire size is increased in both the + charging side and in the grounds.So I used a number 2 wire on the output of the alt to the battery + side and 0/1 on the battery - ground.I still have to ground the engine to chassis to finish with a 0/1 cable.The intake gasket is going to get done on Weds,so sometime after that I will do the engine ground.

Gary, did you put a fuse between the alternator and battery? If not, then you are bypassing the protection put there at the factory.

I'd still like to see pics of some of your work if possible.

No I didn't TB.I don't think Zam did either and the article about the upgrade didn't say anything about it.Where is the stock fuseable link??. Is it one of those three behind the battery??.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/for ... 6&KW=big+3

I haven't seen it, but according to my diagrams it's in the wiring harness between the generator and starter motor. On your '89 it's rust colored and on your 94 it's blue.

I'm thinking it is more a factor of a shorted starter than the charging of the battery.

If the starter shorts out, then the battery won't charge.

I totally agree with you.What I mean is the starter solenoid is being used as a junction for both the charging system and the starter where the fuseable link is on the line going to the starter.If you back go to the ref link,I don't think it says anything about a fuse in the upgrade.

I just wanted to make you aware that you are bypassing the fuse. If you should ever experience a short anywhere between battery, starter and generator, you will have a hot, smoky mess and possibly fire instead of a spent fuse.

A fusible link can be made by simply soldering in a short section of wire, 4 AWG thinner than the wire it is protecting, then wrapping in lots of electrical tape.

Oh no that is a good point.I can get a fuseable link.I need to know what appropriate size to get that won't be too small for the number 2 wire I used.????.