Chevy & GMC Vans

Sorry I tried a search for this but came up more confused...

To relocate the upper Ball Joints on a 95 AWD do I need any spacers? Looks like I can just unbolt them and relocate to the bottom of the arm.

SnoDrtRider wrote:Sorry I tried a search for this but came up more confused...

To relocate the upper Ball Joints on a 95 AWD do I need any spacers? Looks like I can just unbolt them and relocate to the bottom of the arm.

Just giving this a bump up for you...not sure about the AWD'S of this yr, I had a 95 RWD...hopefully someone can help you out shortly...

I think you can just bolt to the bottom of the control arm.

What concerns me it if the three bolts without it being mounted threw the A-arm see more stress. :-k

Maybe grade 8 bolts??.

There are 4 bolts and they are still mounted through the control arms.

use good strong new bolts.
Not rusty old cruddy bolts.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:There are 4 bolts and they are still mounted through the control arms.

4??.Oh crap!!. I left one out??. LOL.

Yeah your right Dean.My point about grade 8 bolts and question about how the flat of the ball joint not being tightened against the top of the A-arm vs being drawn against the bottom of the A-arm.Not sure if that creates more stress..Don't know if there is enough adjustment to get back the alignment either. :-k

1Gary wrote:

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:There are 4 bolts and they are still mounted through the control arms.

4??.Oh crap!!. I left one out??. LOL.

Yeah your right Dean.My point about grade 8 bolts and question about how the flat of the ball joint not being tightened against the top of the A-arm vs being drawn against the bottom of the A-arm.Not sure if that creates more stress..Don't know if there is enough adjustment to get back the alignment either. :-k

I am trying to get the alignment closer looks like a lot of Negative Camber (wheel in at the top) now. The van drives well and goes straight with little or no tire wear but it looks to be off and the steering is very light and sensitive...
I have the torsion bars cranked about an inch and by looking at it moving the BJ to the lower side of the arm would in effect lengthen the arm.

I have some info on this topic! I have relocated my upper ball joints to the bottom of the upper A arm and put a lot of thought into it. In the stock position if all four bolts fail at once the ball joint is still captured by the A arm,it would be a scary but semi-controlled situation. Relocating ball joints to below eliminates that possibility,if all four bolts fail at once U might be screwed! However other manufactures that use similar tortion bar designs with similar ball joint designs have their upper ball joints bolted to the underside of the upper arm from the factory,I think including 2wd astro/safaris,making ball joint spacers possible.I have dirt roaded mine quite a bit since flipping and hardware is still tight! I have decided if it ever loosens I will put a couple tac-welds on them for safety.In the flipped position these vans align even with tortions maxed,and the suspension has as much more travel as the thickness of the arm+the thickness of the ball joint flange multiplied by how far out the tire is,(if that is a number I don't know what it is!) I hope this helps.I am almost positive a 95 is the same configuration as the 97&01 I have flipped.I would also like to add,I have seen a lot of ball joint failures none of which were fixing hardware. No spacers needed just unbolt and relocate,I have always done this with new ball joints and hardware.

Thanks Mark,
I had to put this on a back burner for a few weeks because I needed to use the Astro as a work van as the 06 Express I bought had oil pressure issues which are fixed now so once I get caught up with work I can get back to getting the Astro ready to tow the sleds North once the snow comes back.

Just did the ball joint flip today on a 95. Worked great got some new grade 8 bolts and lock nuts Alignment was perfect.