Was buttoning up adding some hose clamps to my vacuum lines earlier and noticed the sensor in the picture and I'm assuming the vacuum line connected to it is correct and maybe the whole reason I was stalling in hot weather but wanted to ask what the sensor is exactly. From what I can tell it's an EG...

yellow is usually the mode door. Ok so I'm fine with not fixing it right away. Didn't have any success with the pump so it's just going back to the store. Since I no longer have the vacuum reservoir ball under my hood and don't care about the heater door right now, can I just cap off the vacuum lin...

I have my tank sitting on the ground, waiting for the new pump to go in. All my fuel lines are disconnected but I noticed the harness has 3 wires while my replacement pump only has 2. I figured one is for the gauge but how do I not ruin it so my gauge will still work

you can use the service info link I posted to find the vacuum diagram Had a hard time deciphering that but it's ok. I think it may be for the blend door. I got my tank dropped and all the fuel lines disconnected and looking at the wires to the pump there are 3, the pump I purchased came with 2 pigt...

Started replacing vacuum hoses first thing this morning and ran into an issue. Anyone know what this smaller diameter line is for? Goes into the firewall from behind the washer reservoir. It was extremely brittle and snapped just by moving the plastic connector.

measure the fuel pressure I tapped on the IAC in several places and the idle speed didn't change...pump probably needs replaced anyway and it could be the root cause if it all.... just wore out I think and not pushing as much pressure as it used to....I haven't been home long and it started up righ...

Still stalling after replacing fuel pump relay although it only stalled out on me today once on the drive home and that was when I was sitting to wait for a train to pass for almost 5 mins. I've seen videos that mention the IAC and tapping it while running and if idle speed changes, that it should b...

Dielectric grease, use it. You mentioned it would crank slow like a weak battery, look close at the starting and charging circuits, behind the battery I believe you'll find fusible links, 4 IIRC and also look through the harness that runs across the cowl. I had similar issues a couple years ago in ...

You can find further service information here: https://charm.li/Chevy%20Truck/1995/G%2020%20Van%20V8-350%205.7L%20VIN%20K%20TBI/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/ I believe I found it. I also noticed a ground or power distribution block mounted behind the battery on the firewall, all of the nuts and the stu...

MountainManJoe wrote: ↑Sun Apr 28, 2024 8:43 am $5 or $20 doesn't matter if you have to change it every 30 years

Can you tell me the location of it? Not familiar with where the relays are located on these vans. I think there is one mounted somewhere near the washer fluid reservoir and brake booster but I might be wrong

MountainManJoe wrote: ↑Sun Apr 28, 2024 8:20 am Relay.
It's a $5 part so change it first.

It's like $20 here at O'Reilly's and Car Quest

Just got back home from a very short drive to a local gas station. Left the van running while inside and on the way back to my place I noticed the engine light came on for less than 30 seconds and then went out. Checked the codes as soon as I got back home and code 54 (fuel pump circuit voltage low)...

So I've been chasing this problem down since last summer when it first started to happen but still haven't figured it out. I own a 95 G2500 with the 5.7L Basically if I try driving anywhere when the ambient outside temp is over 70F, the van will randomly stall on me, typically when I let off the acc...

Hey folks, new guy here. I've owned my 95 G2500 for a little over a year. It's a love/hate relationship for me. I've been chasing down a stalling issue for almost a year now and I'm not quite sure I've got it figured out still. Someone told me it sounded like it might be a vacuum issue so I'm lookin...