I don't have a tranny cooler, or temp guage, i don't tow anything yet. It shows up after 10-20 minutes of hiway speed driving. In town i usually don't feel the issue at all.
I have read the threads here and some at various other sites and have gotten a bit more confused as to what needs to be done.
i found this page http://www.gmcfaq.org/safari-gmc/hard-s ... 05562.html
the part that interests me is this:
This is an infamous problem with 4L60E transmissions. I’ve had it happen to two of mine -both ‘97 vintage. Question: Are you getting a service engine soon light? Or has it thrown any codes. If you’re having the same problem I did then you’ll get a P1870 code. The code means "internal slippage" or something to that effect. The hard shift is caused by the PCM commanding maximuim line pressure for the shifts in order to accomplish the without burning up the clutch packs. The hard shift is actually a good thing. The cause, however, needs to be corrected. Usually, it can be traced back to the TCC Valve in the valve body. GM changed out their indestructable cast iron valve body in ‘93 for an aluminum one. The TCC valve can wear the bore in this softer material, allowing fluid to get past, which lessens pressure in the circuit that applys the torque converter lock-up. The slippage can also be caused by another TCC valve in the circuit. That one is called the TCC apply valve and it’s housed in the body of the pump. Sometimes it does not seal completely in it’s bore. In the vast majority of the cases, it’s the TCC valve in the valve body causing the problem. The fix is to 1.) replace the valve body at great cost (if out of warranty) or, 2.) Ream and resleeve the TCC bore & replace with a new valve from Sonnax. Sonnax also makes a TCC apply valve with a teflon seal that can be inserted in the bore which is located in the side of the pump. The TCC apply valve is accessable with one of the solonoids removed from in front of the valve body. The Sonnax TCC Valve runs about $60, and the reamer goes for about $75. I think the TCC apply valve costs around $25. The job can be done without dropping the tranny in about 2 hours by a backyard mechanic -less if you have a pro do the job. There’s a lot of good technical reference material at Sonnax’s web site. Go to http://www.sonnax.com for more info.
so basically it doesn't sound so bad.
I also had found this same description of issue and fix on a testimonial type letter from or for a tranny shop but i cant find that anymore.
Has anyone done this fix. How was it, did it work. What else did you do while you had it open.
The other part of the problem is... according to my mechanic friend, and from what i saw as well, the fluid smells burned and looks rather brown.
Am i looking at a full service or rebuild here.
what all part am i going to need to get to to what needs to be done (what else should i do while having the thing open?)???
do go ahead and get the new(better) tcc and tcc apply valve and the reamer and go at the valve body, other things i should replace while i am in there. Should i just have a whole rebuild done at a shop. New Tranny and thats it... Hmm
The van has 230000+ miles on it.
as alway i appreciate any advice or tips. (sparkplugs through the wheel wells save me a lot of headache...)
Thanks Guys..
