Van won't start after rain.

Philly758 · Post by **Philly758** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:36 am

My van will not start after rain. Its a 2000 Safari AWD with 85k on it. I've owned it for just over a year and never had any issues with it starting until this past month.

I just replaced the rotor, cap, wires and plugs with ACDelco parts hoping that it would solve the problem, but it still doesn't start after rain. Not long ago I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds strong when I turn the key. I do have a replacement ignition coil that I am going to try next, but I'm not sure if this will solve my problem. It starts fine if its dry and also starts in the cold (started this past weekend in 40* temps). If its not the ignition coil, rotor, cap, wires or plugs, what would be next... I suppose I will get the battery checked since thats easy/free, I know that it is an older battery that usually reads around 14v. I'll also have to take the dog house off and look for sparks in the dark.

I don't have a covered parking spot at my condo and this is my daily driver. If I can't get this fixed I will need to get another car, which I can't afford at the moment.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

Cobra · Post by **Cobra** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:34 am

i had the same problem it turned out that my ignition coil was failing driving at night with the dog house off i could see arcing between the coils plates

astroturf · Post by **astroturf** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:47 pm

Did you pull the 2 screens out of the Distributor base when you had the cap and rotor off?

Jim

Philly758 · Post by **Philly758** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:39 pm

astroturf wrote:Did you pull the 2 screens out of the Distributor base when you had the cap and rotor off?

Jim

Screens? This is the first I'm hearing about them. A quick internet search tells me that if these are clogged, the cap will not breathe properly and will trap moisture. Awesome. I will have to take a look at and clean these while I have the dog house off. How do I go about accessing the screens, or will it be self explanatory once I am in there?

I figure I'll change the ignition coil while I am in there since I already have it. Hoping I only have one bolt on the bracket, not 2 which will require the removal of the intake assembly (according to Chemist's how-to, http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4080).

Theres more rain in the forecast this week, so I will be testing this out sooner than later.

Thanks for the feedback.

Post by **MountainManJoe** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:50 pm

Philly758 wrote:2000 GMC Safari SLE AWD: 85k miles

Another uber-low mileage van! Where do you people find these?

Philly758 · Post by **Philly758** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:54 pm

I also just read something about WD-40.... Would it do any harm to quickly hit the inside of the cap with WD-40 in an attempt to displace moisture? Has anyone ever done this?

From Snopes.com ~ "If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start."

edit: As far as these screens go... is this GM TSB implying that one should remove the screens all together? http://www.aatecusa.com/obdIIpro/member ... 4_041A.pdf

Cobra · Post by **Cobra** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:10 pm

wd40 isn't the best for ignition components but in a pinch it works sometimes there is an actually spray called ignition kleen(i think that's what it's called) designed for it but i've never used it. The ignition coil bracket does indeed have 2 bolts but you do not need to remove intake assembly to get them out just take out the 3 bolts holding the throttle cable bracket at the front of the engine then you'll be able to move it out of the way to get the 2 studs holding the coil bracket down. we have rain forecast for the week here too sucks to not have a garage

edit:i just checked the link you posted you don't really have to remove the air cleaner assembly but it makes the job REALLY hard with it in, plus its really easy to remove and install

astroturf · Post by **astroturf** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:37 pm

I removed my screens totally. I haven't looked back yet.

Jim

Post by **MountainManJoe** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:39 pm

Philly758 wrote:I figure I'll change the ignition coil while I am in there since I already have it. Hoping I only have one bolt on the bracket, not 2 which will require the removal of the intake assembly (according to Chemist's how-to, http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4080).

That's a pretty good write-up. Anyone know how to test a coil? I don't like replacing parts that don't need it.

astroturf · Post by **astroturf** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:48 pm

I think it could be tested like this...

Ground coil output to ground, Crank engine, and watch coil output.
Blue Spark to ground is desired?

I am guessing here.

Jim

Post by **MountainManJoe** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:50 pm

That might tell you if it's kaput or not, but not if it's weak... if that's even possible. Maybe it's one of those things that either works, or not.

astroturf · Post by **astroturf** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:52 pm

I think weak would be indicated by a yellow or orange spark.

Jim

Philly758 · Post by **Philly758** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:56 pm

Do i not have screens/vents?

astroturf · Post by **astroturf** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:23 pm

I don't see any.

Jim

Philly758 · Post by **Philly758** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:43 pm

Yeah, I don't see any either. Now I have that back together, still not starting. Dinner time.

After dinner I'll look for a spark show in the dark and changing the coil.

If the vans not fixed tonight, I can't get to work, no car to borrow tomorrow.

Chevy & GMC Vans

Chevy & GMC Vans

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