Chevy & GMC Vans

Sorry if I dicouraged you, sometimes I have the hardest times with the simplest things. You may do it and have no problem whatsoever. If you don't mind spending the money, you can get a aftermarket pan with a drain for anywhere from $33 to $300, google "4l60e pan with drain plug" and look at shopping results. Some are deeper and provide more cooling, etc.

If you are gonna buy a new trans pan with a drain plug, get an aluminum cast unit because the cheaper stamped steel ones warp at the bolt flange. The drain plug should have an aluminum sealing ring so there is no need to over tighten.

I drain and re-fill every 10k miles, (replaces 4qts) over kill I know, but I can`t afford to buy a new trans if mine takes a dump, I prefer to baby my original.

Those cast aluminum ones are pretty pricey, however, if the steel ones warp, in the long run they will be cheaper. Thanks for the warning.

I bought my aluminum TCI finned trans pan with drain plug for just $50.

SoCalli V8 wrote:I bought my aluminum TCI finned trans pan with drain plug for just $50.

Where?

The leakage is why I suggested adding the rtv sealant

Mine is stamped steel, chromed no less...lipstick on a pig i know
been on there a coupla years now, no warp and solid as a rock. although if memory serves, I think I spent $125 on it.
check here
http://www.tciauto.com/

SoCalli V8 wrote:I bought my aluminum TCI finned trans pan with drain plug for just $50.

yeah where, I'll take one too!

Rileysowner wrote:Great, that sounds annoying. The instructions make it sound like you just reach in and it will come out. I should know better than to think that it would be that easy.

I just did both the jobs you're describing, trans filter and pilot shaft seal.

For the trans filter o-ring, spend $4 at Harbor freight and buy a set of those little bent end pick/probes that look like industrial strength dental instruments.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-o- ... 42159.html

It's actually called an "O ring hook".

Once the trans pan is off and the filter is out, there's a constant drip of ATF. You won't be able to get directly under the trans to visualize the o-ring because of the dripping oil. The little pick/probe thingie can reach up there and allow you to feel the o-ring, then pull it out, all without getting a face full of cherry juice. The old seal will fall into the drain pan.

For the pilot shaft seal, I didn't buy a seal puller. I used a big flat blade screwdriver. If I ever do it again, I'll buy a seal puller. PVC pipe and a shot filled rubber mallet seated the new seal in just moments. I used Lucas Trans Seal oil to coat the seal before installing it.

When you pull the drive shaft, be sure and mark where the rear of the shaft and U-joint align with the diff. Dab on some paint, white-out, chalk, whatever. The mark only has to last while you do this job. You could(?) simply scratch a line in the grease/dirt coating or scribe on the metal, but once you drop it it may get more scratches and then be difficult to tell which is your mark. It's also tough, at least for me, to see small marks while I'm upside down, sweating, under a van, being bitten on the ankles by flies etc. Big white paint dab is simple to see and not ambiguous.

When you disconnect the little 5/16 inch bolts from the rear drive shaft, wrap tape around the U joint to make sure the caps stay in place.

And as others have suggested, spend another $4 and install one of those drain plug bungs.

Big picture, you need a really big drain pan and an even bigger drip pan under that. A gallon of hot ATF coming down from an area the size of a transmission pan is a lot "wilder" than the simple half inch hole that regular engine oil drains from.

All in all, a relatively simple, although a bit messy job.


Lumpy

You were the "OPERATION" game voice?
Yes. Take out wrenched ankle.

http://www.LumpyMusic.com

Great Info Lumpy. Thanks, Jim

Just dropped the pan. Plus side, using my new air ratchet the bolts came out really quick and easy. Down side, after draining some of the fluid with the take off some of the bolts loosen other a pry it off the gasket, I lost control when taking the last bolt out and got a bunch of ATF all over the driveway. Oh well, wipe it up and move on I guess.

Without the pic thing, and after trying to get the o-ring out with my finger, I am wondering if I will ever get it out. Any other ways to get it out since I have had little success at this point?

This part that was on the new filter is the o-ring right:

Rileysowner wrote:Without the pic thing, and after trying to get the o-ring out with my finger, I am wondering if I will ever get it out. Any other ways to get it out since I have had little success at this point?

The four dollar o ring remover tool in the link I posted above.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-o- ... 42159.html



You really would have had it out in about eleven seconds.
Kind of like trying to remove lug nuts. You CAN do it with
a vice grip or a crescent wrench but use the right tool
(lug nut wrench) and you'll get it done a thousand times
faster and with a lot less grief.

Spend the 4 bucks. While you're there, you can buy RTV
for the gasket, a BIG drip pan, driveway oil spill absorbant,
box-o-rags. All for way less than you paid for the air wrench.


Lumpy

You were the "OPERATION" game voice?
Yes. Take out wrenched ankle.

http://www.LumpyMusic.com

The problem is that $4 tool onces shipped and through customs and all the rest will cost me a lot more that $4. I got it out with a very thin screwdriver I could get under the edge of the o-ring. A little prying and out it came. Yes, the right tool would help. I looked for one and either they were out of stock or didn't carry them. When I see one I will get it since two years from now I will need to do this again. I was going to install a drain bung, which I do have, but it seems to have disappeared. I'm going to keep looking but want to get this done pretty soon.

Where would be a good place to install it. I have never looked inside a trans before, and it looks rather full in there. I wish money was such at the moment that I could have ordered a new pan with a drain, but it isn't.

Arrrg. How do you get the o-ring in. I can get it a little way in, but not all the way in, and without it in, the filter cannot be installed properly. I'm running out of energy and time.

Edit: Necessity is the mother of invention. I found so pvc that was close to the size I needed and used that to carefully drive in the o-ring. At least that is done. Now to get the pan back on and hopefully no leaks from the drain plug I installed.

Rileysowner wrote:Arrrg. How do you get the o-ring in. I can get it a little way in, but not all the way in, and without it in, the filter cannot be installed properly. I'm running out of energy and time...

You slip the o ring over the male, plastic pipe, upper end of the
filter assembly, the part that slips up into the transmission.
Then you push the whole filter assembly up into the hole.

Here's the o-ring remover tool from princessauto, up there in Canukia.
Buy the set now, while you're not rushed. You'll use it for this and
other jobs in the future. Very inexpensive -
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand- ... scribe-set

Sounds like you found an appropriate spot for the drain plug.
That's good! It is, as you say, "crowded" in there. Have to be
sure that the inside part of the drain bung doesn't interfere
with the transmission parts.

Jobs that are seemingly big and complex, are made up of lots
of tiny, simpler tasks. Any one of those tiny tasks can bug the
hell out of you if you feel stuck at that point (like the o-ring problem).
It sometimes seems difficult to come to terms with those darn tasks
that seem like they aren't cooperating. It's usually a simple case of
not having the right tool.

Having a reason to buy a new tool is always a good thing.
Especially when the tool is really inexpensive, as in this case.

Big picture - You've just extended the life of your trans,
probably by a significant amount. The small amount of
money and grief you spent, is nothing compared to the
cost and grief you'd spend if you had to replace the
trans instead.

Congrats on getting it done. You'll do it again in the future.
It will be MUCH easier, because of what you've learned on
this job. For a confidence booster, drain and replace the
trans fluid in a year or so. Only cost will be the replacement
of about 4 qts of juice.

I dub thee "Certified Grease Monkey"...


Lumpy

You sang all those car commercials?
You got it, Toyota.
http://www.LumpyMusic.com