Hi everyone;
I'm new on this site and you have saved me already (blower resistor replacement), thank you.
I have diagnosed that the 4 position fan switch on the heating/ac panel is defective. I've removed the panel from the dash, BUT, how on earth does the switch come out of the panel?
It must, because GM sell the switch separate from the panel. I have the new switch, GM part #16202941.
Yes, I did run a search on this site but found nothing for this problem.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
MMP
99 Safari AC/heat fan control switch - removal
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Topic author - I am merely driving my van
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:48 pm
- Location: Winnipeg, Canada
- Contact:
99 Safari AC/heat fan control switch - removal
1999 Safari AWD SLT,
180,000, remote starter, extra leaf springs, class 3 hitch, brake control, K&N filter, Otto
180,000, remote starter, extra leaf springs, class 3 hitch, brake control, K&N filter, Otto
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- I plan to be buried in my van
- Posts: 2153
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 6:45 pm
- Location: Selah, WA
- Contact:
Re: 99 Safari AC/heat fan control switch - removal
motorvator wrote:Hi everyone;
I'm new on this site and you have saved me already (blower resistor replacement), thank you.
I have diagnosed that the 4 position fan switch on the heating/ac panel is defective. I've removed the panel from the dash, BUT, how on earth does the switch come out of the panel?
It must, because GM sell the switch separate from the panel. I have the new switch, GM part #16202941.
Yes, I did run a search on this site but found nothing for this problem.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
MMP
I'm sorry I don't have the answer, but I wanted to ask a stupid question...
You are sure the switch itself is bad and not just a broken knob, right? I ask because I went through two knobs on my van and the first time it happened, I thought it was a switch problem. (The warranty repair paperwork only showed a knob being replaced, so when it happened a second time, I took a closer look at the knob and found it had a hairline crack.)
Matt
Selah, WA
-96 GMC Safari AWD Hi-Top Conversion -->Stalled 5.3L swap & 5" lift
-74 Ford Bronco -->Far from perfect but mine!
-99 V-10 Ford Super Duty Super Cab 4x4 -->Stock with 285 Cooper ATs
-00 Ford Focus Wagon -->The Red Turd
-95 Ford 24' Class C Motorhome -->My big block sleeper
-07 Can-Am Outlander XT -->My yellow 4x4 quad for work & play
-04 Ski Doo REV Summit -->Still several chassis behind!
No new projects until the current ones are done!
Selah, WA
-96 GMC Safari AWD Hi-Top Conversion -->Stalled 5.3L swap & 5" lift
-74 Ford Bronco -->Far from perfect but mine!
-99 V-10 Ford Super Duty Super Cab 4x4 -->Stock with 285 Cooper ATs
-00 Ford Focus Wagon -->The Red Turd
-95 Ford 24' Class C Motorhome -->My big block sleeper
-07 Can-Am Outlander XT -->My yellow 4x4 quad for work & play
-04 Ski Doo REV Summit -->Still several chassis behind!
No new projects until the current ones are done!
-
Topic author - I am merely driving my van
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:48 pm
- Location: Winnipeg, Canada
- Contact:
Thanks for the observation.
After replacing the resistor (hardest part was cutting the box to take the AC Delco replacement), swapping out the thermostat for a 195, flushing the rad, start her up and guess what, only high speed heat, but lots of it (measured 105f at the vent).
Yes, I had checked this forum and discovered the "fan knob cracked trick". That was actually the first thing I checked. So, having done all the above it brought me back to the fan control switch.
My posted problem is now solved.
I just came back in after a test drive. The new switch is now in the panel. Lots of heat in all 4 fan positions.
Here's how I did it:
The fan switch is round and has three hooks on it so it's designed to slide into the back of the ac/heat control panel with the three hooks engaging into 3 square cutouts.
The trick was removing the old switch without taking the control panel apart. There are 6 oblong holes (3 on each long side edge) on the panel back that allow you to slide the equivalent of a feeler gauge into them and release the "hooks". Problem is you would have to do them all at the same time and I wasn't sure if the panel was loaded with ball bearings and springs. I could have made a tool to do it but I like things simpler. So, I went with plan "B".
Plan B:
Two of the square holes with the hooks of the old switch are plainly visible, the 3rd hole is crowded by the control panel back design.
Using a narrow straight flat screwdriver I applied tension between the switch and the panel alongside one of the visible hooks. At the same time I inserted the smallest jewellers screwdriver I had into that hook and applied tension in towards the centre. Between the two tensions, that side of the switch rotated slightly out. I did the same to the 2nd visible hook. This leaves the 3rd hook that you cannot get to. However, applying slight tension between the switch and the panel directly between the previously released hooks, allows the switch to rotate out.
Out came the old switch. The new switch "snaps" back in. Problem solved.
After replacing the resistor (hardest part was cutting the box to take the AC Delco replacement), swapping out the thermostat for a 195, flushing the rad, start her up and guess what, only high speed heat, but lots of it (measured 105f at the vent).
Yes, I had checked this forum and discovered the "fan knob cracked trick". That was actually the first thing I checked. So, having done all the above it brought me back to the fan control switch.
My posted problem is now solved.
I just came back in after a test drive. The new switch is now in the panel. Lots of heat in all 4 fan positions.
Here's how I did it:
The fan switch is round and has three hooks on it so it's designed to slide into the back of the ac/heat control panel with the three hooks engaging into 3 square cutouts.
The trick was removing the old switch without taking the control panel apart. There are 6 oblong holes (3 on each long side edge) on the panel back that allow you to slide the equivalent of a feeler gauge into them and release the "hooks". Problem is you would have to do them all at the same time and I wasn't sure if the panel was loaded with ball bearings and springs. I could have made a tool to do it but I like things simpler. So, I went with plan "B".
Plan B:
Two of the square holes with the hooks of the old switch are plainly visible, the 3rd hole is crowded by the control panel back design.
Using a narrow straight flat screwdriver I applied tension between the switch and the panel alongside one of the visible hooks. At the same time I inserted the smallest jewellers screwdriver I had into that hook and applied tension in towards the centre. Between the two tensions, that side of the switch rotated slightly out. I did the same to the 2nd visible hook. This leaves the 3rd hook that you cannot get to. However, applying slight tension between the switch and the panel directly between the previously released hooks, allows the switch to rotate out.
Out came the old switch. The new switch "snaps" back in. Problem solved.
1999 Safari AWD SLT,
180,000, remote starter, extra leaf springs, class 3 hitch, brake control, K&N filter, Otto
180,000, remote starter, extra leaf springs, class 3 hitch, brake control, K&N filter, Otto