Summit Racing: 3x3 body spacers

[Moe]

Just completed a paint job on my 95 Astro and getting ready to do a lift this month. I want to keep it as simple as possible and will source out most of the parts. 4\1 S-10 leaf springs from Suspension Kings, and body lift spacers from Summit Racing. I was wondering if anyone has used the 3x3 inch body spacers offered by Summit rather than the 2x3 offered by Overland? It seems the extra inch in height would save me from having to over torque the torsion bars. My 95' has the older style bars and I was hoping not to have to replace them with the shorter ones.

Any thoughts?
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Moe

[MountainManJoe]

The two methods serve entirely different purposes.

Lifting the suspension increases your chassis to ground clearance, but also reduces downward travel.

Subframe spacers only increase your body to ground clearance. Are you aware of the side effects?
You are pulling the engine away from the body, radiator, and airbox, meaning that you will be stretching various wires, cables, linkages ,hoses and ducts to their limit. You will probably need to lengthen the steering shaft. The radiator will lift further away from the cooling fan. You will need even longer bolts to go with 3" spacers. That means there's more leverage on them, and increased shearing stress, especially when towing. The center of gravity will also be further from the chassis.

[Moe]

Thank you timelessbeing for your reply. I have the same concerns as you, but never having done a lift before, was hoping there would be enough slack in the components you mentioned to go 1 inch taller on the body spacers to save the cost of new torsion bars.

I see most of the auto part retailers are selling the shorter torsion bars for about $180.00 each by a company called Doreman. OV is asking over $500.00 but they do have the re-indexed keys. If anyone has installed the Doreman brand, please do chime in.

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Thanks , Moe

[1Gary]

By using the pipe lift method it is as safe as the stock set up without messing with the alinement of your front end.More work??. Yes.But the extra effort is well worth it.

[MountainManJoe]

More work??

A LOT of extra work if you just want a bit bigger tires. If you want huge tires, you also have to factor in the cost of re-gearing two axles.

[1Gary]

TB-you get back what you put in either in money or effort.THAT will never change. #-o

[MountainManJoe]

The pipe lift is great, Gary, but not in this situation. Moe expressed that he wants to keep it as simple as possible, and by the sounds of it, keep the cost down.

I don't think the 3" spacers are worth the extra trouble, but it would help if you told us what you intend to use your van for.

[Smiliesafari]

Moe, here's a FYI. Dorman products are made in China. Personally, I wouldn't trust any Chinese steering or suspenson parts.

[Moe]

I think the pipe lift would really be over kill for my purpose. I mainly plan on using the van for camping and going on fire break roads in my area, no rock climbing. My friends give me a bad time for driving a soccer mobile, so I figure I would man it up with a lift.
I know every one hates the crap from China, but with all the auto parts store selling this brand, I'm sure they must have done testing on them or there would be a lot of law suites.
I phoned around yesterday to see if I could buy a set of late model used ones from local auto wreckers, but no luck. I don't think they want to take the time and trouble to remove them.
So, as no long road trips are planed, and camping will be done at local areas, I think I'll go cheap with the torsion bars and hope for the best. ----------------------------------------------------------------
Moe

[MountainManJoe]

hahah "man it up". I think they're driven by more tradesmen than soccer moms. Your friends are just jealous that you think outside the box. Can their vehicles do all this? move your girlfriend's crap, haul tools and materials to a job site in a dry and secure 4x8' cargo area (most pickups can't), sleep in comfortably when camping, tow a boat, surefooted as a goat in snowy and rough terrain, and transport 7 passengers! All for a few thousand dollars. I think being prepared for anything is pretty manly.

Anyway, you'll do just fine with the 2" spacers and squeezing a bit of height out of your torsion bars. (I don't understand why you want to buy new ones) Put on some 29" offroad tires and you'll be laughing. You can always upgrade later anyway.

[Moe]

Hey, thanks timelessbeing! I feel better about my self already. I'll be strutting my stuff in no time. I think your right, I'm only going to tighten the torsion bars enough to get me to three inch's in the front ( with pucks ). I was concerned though because I have the older, long torsion bars and didn't want to have failure on the road or out camping.
If I would have spent 1/10 of the time installing the lift as I have researching, I would already be done. When I;m done, I'll post a few pics.
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Thanks, Moe

[MountainManJoe]

If they fail, they fail. The van will drop, but it should still be drivable. Cross that bridge when you get to it and replace them.

[1Gary]

I think the pipe lift would really be over kill for my purpose. I mainly plan on using the van for camping and going on fire break roads in my area, no rock climbing. My friends give me a bad time for driving a soccer mobile, so I figure I would man it up with a lift.
I know every one hates the crap from China, but with all the auto parts store selling this brand, I'm sure they must have done testing on them or there would be a lot of law suites.
I phoned around yesterday to see if I could buy a set of late model used ones from local auto wreckers, but no luck. I don't think they want to take the time and trouble to remove them.
So, as no long road trips are planed, and camping will be done at local areas, I think I'll go cheap with the torsion bars and hope for the best. ----------------------------------------------------------------
Moe

Well Moe-just take this advise.If a spacer interrupts the stock mount from sliding inside both hafts of the body mount through the sub frame,it is a hazard.

It isn't so much a question of where it was built,but more a matter of a history of sub standard parts failing from China is what Skip who has had a shop in Florida is telling you about.

[MountainManJoe]

If a spacer interrupts the stock mount from sliding inside both hafts of the body mount through the sub frame,it is a hazard.

Huh?

[1Gary]

TB-there is a top haft and a bottom haft.One slides inside the other trapping the sub frame between.It is one of the key elements of the pipe method by sliding the bottom body mount up into the pipe and keeping the stock mounting design and bolt length.You are doing this by opening up the hole size of the bottom of the sub frame to allow you to slide the bottom mount inside the pipe once you have correct on center holes on the pipe.Of course I am talking about the pipes being welded caped off and the correct on center on the caps.This method also doesn't effect the wheel alinement so your not going to have to fight to get that back somewhat close to stock.So aside from larger tires putting on more stress and wearing front end parts faster,it is one mod that I can think of which is somewhat a free ride with no costs long term.

If I remember the camera the next time I am at the shop,I'll post some pixs for you of the mounts.