A few years ago I put in a second battery and an "auto switching" circuit that switches interior lights and accessory circuits to the "house" battery when the ignition is OFF viewtopic.php?f=62&t=8396. I also put in LED in the reading and cabin lights. This has worked well.
One thing I've been wanting to do is make the cabin light switch more accessible. As it was, they were only operable from the light switch on the dash (hard to reach). I also wanted to be able to turn them on when standing at the cook table out back.
It was really pretty simple, as this light circuit merely needs a switch to ground. The rear dome light has been replaced with a directional light for outside illumination
To switch the cabin lights from inside, I picked one of the reading lamps that we never use (center drivers side) and made a simple jumper from the dome light to the reading light switch
Easy and works great! Note the led compared to the incandescent reading lamp.
Also finally put in an interior release switch for the rear hatch; accessible from bed.
house lights
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
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house lights
1998 AWD/4WD
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710
Re: house lights
Hi.
How did you do the rear hatch door release? We've been thinking we need something like that. I was just going to make a pull cord.
How did you do the rear hatch door release? We've been thinking we need something like that. I was just going to make a pull cord.
2004 AWD. S10 4" rear springs. 2" Body spacers. Prothane body bushings. Insulated. Ventline VP543 roof fan. Hella 500's. Tru-cool 4454. Bilstein shocks. Brembo. Hawk.LED bar. 235/75/16 Hankook Dynapro ATM
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 592
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 4:38 pm
- Location: 7000' in the Mountains of California
Re: house lights
I jumped the same wires that the outside switch contacts with the inside switch. It was very easy.bunce1260 wrote:Hi.
How did you do the rear hatch door release? We've been thinking we need something like that. I was just going to make a pull cord.
1998 AWD/4WD
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710
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- I sleep in my van
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- Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:45 am
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Re: house lights
I've been planning to do the same with the rear hatch release, but I've also been considering a cable or mechanical release. I think it was Tom that encountered a problem with a dead battery or other loss of power and found that he couldn't get to his tools because he couldn't open the hatch. My interior build makes such issues less "permanent", but I do often consider what would happen should I lose power but need to open the rear hatch...
"My minivan is cooler than your bro-truck"
2003 Astro AWD Astrolander/ZMB - GTRV Top Transplant, 4" OLV Lift, NP233 T-case, evolving interior
1995 Safari GTRV Organ donor - gutted and gone.
2003 Astro AWD Astrolander/ZMB - GTRV Top Transplant, 4" OLV Lift, NP233 T-case, evolving interior
1995 Safari GTRV Organ donor - gutted and gone.
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 592
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 4:38 pm
- Location: 7000' in the Mountains of California
Re: house lights
Good thing to consider! I know a tech that has had to get a number of these hatches open after failed solenoids. It apparently requires access from inside to open/repair. In my case that would require removing the bed! No good.Herbie wrote:I've been planning to do the same with the rear hatch release, but I've also been considering a cable or mechanical release. I think it was Tom that encountered a problem with a dead battery or other loss of power and found that he couldn't get to his tools because he couldn't open the hatch. My interior build makes such issues less "permanent", but I do often consider what would happen should I lose power but need to open the rear hatch...
1998 AWD/4WD
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710
4" lift, 31x10.50's, NP 242j/c hybrid, 4.10 gears, S10 front disconnect, rack & pinion steering, trans cooler, rock sliders, ARB fridge, house battery and 100w solar, swing out rear rack with foldout camp table, bed and passenger swivel chair
dirt bag camping rig
1981 Toyota 4x4 pu
1974 John Deere 710