Need basic install info for car audio

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tomdad
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Need basic install info for car audio

Post by tomdad »

I wanna add a sub, using the stock speaks for mids/highs. I know that a high-pass filter is used to get the lows out of these, and I've read the many posts on how to get power to a sub, etc, but I need basic info on installations, as I'm not very knowledgeable in this area, oddly, since I've set up pa's for live sound reinforcement, etc. many a time. The few sites I've checked out are all starting from too advanced a point for my needs. Appreciate any help.

My sub is going between the front seats too, and will serve as table/cupholder as well.............+om
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Post by blk lt awd »

posted a reply for you on the "other" board...if u need more detail please let me know and i can post up. cheers.
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Post by TechSys »

All very good sites, trybe.

Car Audio Central
Fiberglass Forums
Real Car Audio

And for correction....

A low-pass filter is a filter that passes low frequencies well, but attenuates (or reduces) frequencies higher than the cutoff frequency.

A high-pass filter is a filter that passes high frequencies well, but attenuates (or reduces) frequencies lower than the cutoff frequency.

A band-pass filter is a device that passes frequencies within a certain range and rejects (attenuates) frequencies outside that range.

You do not want to put a high pass filter on subwoofers. I saw somebody mention that on another post and was going to answer then, but figured it'd probably be more usefull in this topic. A high pass filter will allow unwanted frequencies to pass into the subwoofer. A subwoofer is not meant for voices and such, which is what a high pass filter will let the sub get.
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tomdad
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Post by tomdad »

.....and a correction to your correction, TechSys, the use of the high-pass that I referenced was for the stock stuff in the van, not the sub to be added. As I mentioned, I've done MUCH sound system work and have a good understanding of audio signal chains 'n such. Not griping-just that nobody wants to be accused of making a dumb mistake-esp. when they didn't. Thnx all for links. Will check out tonight..........+oM
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Post by TechSys »

No problem there. I didn't mean to sound like I was accusing anybody for making a mistake. Actually I think I read your post wrong in the first place.

Yes, to get the bass out of the speakers, use a high pass filter. :)

It's all good.
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Post by tomdad »

Should mention...........head is Sony claiming 4X50 wattage. Sub will be Elemental Design 13Kv.2, boxed up and powered by their Nine.2 amp. I've heard this combo sound very good in car trunks though mine will be between the front seats.

+oM
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Post by crash »

hey tom.. i just wanted to add a note about your enclosure. if it's sealed and between the seats you may (or already have) want to face the sub firing towards the rear of the van to extend the bass wave because the sub is so close to where you'll be listening to it.

the sound from the same setup you've heard in car trunks or hatchback will be very different in the van.

example. i have two identical encloures, both sealed, both have an MTX 8000 series 10" sub. same head unit, same amp. one setup is in the very back of my astro. the other is directly behind the seat in my dakota ext cab pickup. night and day.
the bass sounds good at low volume in the dakota.. once adding some volume it gets almost sloppy sounding. if i leave the volume at the same level and stand about 6 ft in front of the dakota it resembles the smooth sounding quality of the van and all levels. who cares what it sounds like outside? LOL.. not me.

you probably already have taken this into consideration, i thought i'd post it for someone's benefit. the easiest way to look at it: you have an enclosure (sub box) within an enclosure (van area or trunk). that changes the sound.
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Post by crash »

on a speaker note .. i'm not sure which model of sony head unit you have, however, if you are running the 4(?) stock speakers off the headunit, unamplified. you will want to set that up for sound (mid bass treble) first without the sub being powered. when it sounds to you're liking with the new headunit at a normal listening level, for you. then you use the sub out on the headunit and/or the gain on the amp to bring it's level up to meet the stock speakers. i've found this to be the best way to start with setting up a system for sound quality. you don't want to start with the sub first or your stock speakers will never be able to keep up and the sound quality may never sound right.
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99 Astro LS Sept 08 ASV VOM
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tomdad
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Post by tomdad »

Good points Crash. Yeah I was thinking rear-firing, tho I noticed some guys point em at the floor. I'm also hoping to mount the amp in reach so I can easily adjust sub level.

Still not totally sure on the wiring business, but will study up when time permits.

Peace......+oM
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Topic author
tomdad
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Post by tomdad »

Tried an enclosure/speaker/amp of the type I'll be using. Worked very nicely even though not a true test as the stock speakers were still running full range. But at least I know i can get where I'm trying to go with this setup. My enclosure will have to be slightly narrower in width, but deeper, to fit inbetween the seats. The friend who is gonna build it for me makes extremely nice speaker cabs, and very quickly too. My funds have taken a few unexpected hits lately, so I'm gonna have to put this off for a while. But I'm very stoked at the difference this is gonna make!

BTW, priced some "bass blockers" and surprised how cheap they are! These are the inline high-pass filters that will get the lows out of the stocks. Anyone know what these things actually consist of, since they're so inexpensive?

Raspect...........+oM
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Post by Sublimewind »

The bass blocker you speek of are nothing more than caps (capasitors) and there good for a 6db rolloff.. BUT if you have a decent aftermarket HU most have internal crossovers that work on the speaker outputs as well as the RCA outs.... negateing the need for bass blockers.

You may consider a 4ch amp that you could power the front mids/tweets with and bridge the rear channels to power the sub....

They make 5ch amps designed to run a complete system also, you can either do front/rear/sub or bi-wire front/sub...

I'm working on useing my 4ch amp now to power my mids and tweets seperately and my sub amp, for my sub, rather than having my 4ch bridged to 2ch and running through passive crossovers (cap/coil networks)
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